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Not sure what you are asking here...


1) If you want to take a picture of a diamond for grading as per the title of your thread, don't bother. You can't do it (grade from a picture, that is) - no matter how good the picture is.


2) If you want to show us the picture, just link it using [ IMG= url location of the picture ] tags (without spaces between "[" and the IMG code. Like this:






3) If you want to take pictures of diamonds "like the ones that JA take", the equipment costs well over $20k, and that's before you buy a camera to take the pictures. As a cheaper option, here are some tips for taking jewellery/diamond pictures that were posted on the forum a while ago:




ETA: in general, no microscope required, or even a high resolution camera - at least as long as you see pictures on a typical computer screen. The pic above is about 180,000 pixels... which is a small percentage of a modern low-end camera's sensor.


4) If you want to use - as opposed to link to - the JA picture to show to someone else, strictly speaking you should ask JA. There is such a thing as copyright.

Edited by davidelevi
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As mentioned above, for grading purposes, no. You can't grade from a photo.


Taking good pictures is a trade secret in a big way and the folks who are good at it guard it jealously. Again as mentioned above, they spend serious money and endless practice to do this. The biggest secrets are a long exposure (to get a high depth of field), a very stable platform (because of the long exposure), careful lighting including the selection of the background that's going to reflect, careful stone alignment, and extremely clean stones.

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The issue is not the camera - and you definitely don't need a microscope. The issue is lighting and stability, plus the amount of bells and whistles that you need (or not) - e.g. if you want to shoot videos of a stone that rotates, you'll need a turntable.


There's literally hundreds of options of jewellery light boxes, starting at a few hundred $ and ending at several thousands; if you need to shop in Thailand, it's very likely that you'd be better off looking at local rather than US-based suppliers; these things are bulky and heavy, and the opportunity to see and demonstrate the equipment is definitely worth something.


FWIW, the equipment that JA uses is a particularly sophisticated light box with many different types of lighting, camera framing and stone movement - I don't know the precise model.


To be honest, rather than focusing on the equipment, focus on practice. If you want to use a lightbox (not necessary, but sometimes useful), then go around and see if you can practice with a few demo models and see what produces the best results for you.

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A professional camera with a macro lens works just fine. That Samsung is more than enough. Microscopes give very little room to work. You could do it with a phone or a point and shoot but it's hard because you can't control the lights.


Get or make a bulletproof copy stand.


Get a macro lens with a long enough focal distance that you've got at least 6 inches or so between the lens and the subject. Basically, the longer the better. That's how you control the lights.


Practice with the lighting.


Practice with cleaning and getting the stone level. A single speck of dust and a single degree of tilt will screw you up.


Turn off the automatic functions of the camera. Do it manually.

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I have the same question. I know DiBox can take decent pictures and the software is a very useful one and the device+software is able to take IS, ASET, Hearts and Arrows images as well. 


However, for glamour shots I am looking for tips on taking pictures like we see on WhiteFlash? Is it different colored background that reflects on the diamond? Is it backlight of some sort? 

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It's the lighting and the background details of what's surrounding the camera. That's how to make the arrows pop for example. It's the things that are reflecting in the stone. I'm pretty sure the background you see in the image behind the stone itself is added in post processing.


The one they call a glamour shot is taken with a sparkle filter.  You can buy them at BH photo to fit whatever camera lens you happen to be using.  Whether this is worth anything is another question but it does give you another image to show so I suppose there's not really a downside to doing it.  There are dozens of brands and, no doubt, the exact details of what they're using would be a trade secret.  They're not very expensive so it doesn't hurt to experiment.  I suspect there are LED lights surrounding the camera as well.  Try wearing a hat with Christmas lights.


These give a pretty cool effect too. Don't forget, filters can be stacked.



Edited by denverappraiser
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The issue is not the camera. You do not need an expensive camera, microscope, to take an unbelievable JPG shot/s.  Try a point and shoot, with a good macro lens, and manual function.
FWIW: It’s the lighting, background, and focus adjustment. But most importantly. Its practice…Period

Let’s use the sweet science of boxing as an example. I can teach you to throw a jab, and a cross. There rather easy to demonstrate. But you wouldn’t know how to use them in a fight because well, you have not practiced enough…
Look at F. Mayweather, or L. Rijker. Both un- defeated world champion boxers.
They have thrown those 2 punches combinations; hmmmmm. 100,000+ times in practice and in contest.
There balance, weight transfer, force (mass + velocity), positioning, straightness & sharpness, are always on point. (We call it on-line) Or when a fighter will be in position to throw a shot or make one miss…Add defense and stamina and well you have a fighter…

Comparatively without an understanding of subject, reflection, lighting, angles, background, focus, etc...... You only have the hardware/gloves it’s just that simple!

BTW: Look at DBL (Diamondsbylauren) David takes some of the best pictorial renditions of diamonds on the internet! I’m almost posititive he does not use 20K dollar light boxes, cameras, or software!!!
Best of luck!

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"Average" cut M colour in strong direct sunlight (2.30 ct, NF) (it would probably be graded as VG to EX by GIA)


Superbly cut M colour in direct sunlight (2.00, AGS 0, NF)


Same stone once set, in indirect sunlight



That's David & Davide's work....

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