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Tolkowsky Loose Diamond - What Is It?


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I've been looking at only ideal diamonds. AGS0000 or GIAXXX.


Tonight I was shown a loose diamond at a local jewelry store which was quite beautiful but I am having trouble figuring out exactly what it is.


It comes with "Birth Certificate" which states "Cut by Tolkowsky The World's Original Ideal Cut Diamond" It has some other details about the stone and finally says "Jean Paul Tolkowsky" on the bottom.


It does come with an accompanied GIA grading report but I'm confused because the only things I can find which reference the brand Tolkowsky point to Kay and Jared. I'm aware that the Leo diamond has the wrong number of facets for RBI, but what's the story with this diamond?


The relevant stats are

Round Brilliant

6.47 - 6.54 x 4.02

1.03 CT

Color D

Clarity VS2

Cut Ex

Polish / Symmetry Ex / Ex

Fl None

Pinpoints are not shown

Additional Inscription: H & A


Crown: 54%

Crown Height: 16.0%

Crown Angle: 34.5%

Girdle: Thin - Medium (faceted)

Total Depth: 61.8%

Pav Angle: 40.6%

Pav Depth: 43.0%

There's a marking which shows 75% I assume its the star length or the lower girdle facet length. Looked great on a hearts and arrows viewer but no ASET.


I assume that the Inscription H & A must be laser inscribed on the girdle?


It looks outstanding. The other stone I looked at it with was a nearly similar AGS0000 with H color being the main difference. The ASET on this stone was outstanding.


What's a typical price on a stone like this? Is this "the real deal" or is there anything odd about it being a Tolkowsky? I like the fact that the birth certificate says "Conflict Free"



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The Tolkowsky business is significantly larger than the Leo franchise marketed through Jared/Kay's. They have a variety of other custom/patented cuts (e.g. "Gabrielle") and also cut traditionally styled stones. Nothing strange with that; they just aren't as heavily marketed as the Leo.


The 75% is the lower girdle percentage.


Since it says "additional" inscription, it should be on the girdle, just after the GIA symbol and report number.


Price: the Diamond Finder (link at the top of every forum page) is a pretty good way of getting prices from several competitive vendors. It's free, does not require registration and it does not commit you to buy or even receive an email. http://www.diamondreview.com/diamonds/?sortOrder=price&sortDesc=1&fShape=Rnd&fCaratLo=1.00&fCaratHi=1.05&fColorLo=D&fColorHi=D&fClarityLo=VS2&fClarityHi=VS2&fCutLo=exc&fCutHi=exc&fDepthLo=0.0&fDepthHi=100.0&fTableLo=40.0&fTableHi=80.0&fSymLo=&fSymHi=poor&fPolLo=&fPolHi=poor&fCulLo=&fCulHi=vlarge&fFlrLo=&fFlrHi=vstrong&fPriceLo=0&fPriceHi=1000000&fLabGIA=1&adv=1


Being a Tolkowsky means just that: it has been cut by a Tolkowsky employee or contractor. Nothing odd, but equally nothing intrinsically valuable, unless for some reason you are a fan of the brand/family.


The "conflict free" moniker is an interesting one. Despite all the scaremongering (and true violence) around diamonds, there have never been massive quantities of conflict diamonds entering the retail shops, and the much maligned Kimberley Process has actually worked to do what it was designed to do (prevent diamonds from war zones from entering the international trade). If you then extend the concept of "conflict" to non-exploitation of miners, non (excessive and polluting) exploitation of natural resources etc, the question becomes a lot more controversial.

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