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Settings: Platinum Vs White Gold

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Can someone give me the pros and cons of platinum vs white gold? Things I've heard, which I don't know if they're true or not, are:

 

  • Platinum is softer, so it will scratch easier and after some wear it can develop a 'dull' appearance.
  • Platinum being softer means prongs could get bent easier but probably would not break, so perhaps the stone is more secure from loss (It will be a 3.2+ ct round).
  • White gold being harder means the prongs are going to be stronger, but under unusual circumstances may break instead of bending which of course could let the stone fall out, but perhaps the stone is more secure in most situations than in platinum due to this. (Note, I'm looking at a six prong Tiffany-like setting so maybe a non-concern either way)
  • White gold will maintain its shine and color better than platinum.

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Softer - generally yes (though it depends on the specific alloys being compared). It's also true that platinum tends to scratch by furrowing (the metal is shifted around, not removed), while gold tends to chip away, so repolishing can be more problematic on gold.

 

Prongs bending and security - not necessarily something to do with hardness. Some white golds are decidedly brittle and may snap. Also, platinum has no "memory" (springiness), which means that it will bend and accommodate a shifting stone under great pressure, while gold will spring back (not necessarily break) and leave the stone loose. Having said all this, an impact of the extent necessary to break a prong or dislodge a stone will have me more concerned about the wearer than the ring!

 

Shine and colour: if you replate WG regularly, yes. Not otherwise (in fact, since most WG is plated, it will look considerably worse than platinum after a while). Also, I love the patina on old platinum, but that's a matter of personal taste.

 

They also feel different; platinum is about 50% heavier than 18k gold for the same volume. Some people like the heft of platinum, others like the relative lightness of gold.

 

Allergy and sensitivity is much more common to alloy components used for gold than for platinum.

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Unless someone specifically wanted white gold for a particular reason, platinum is generally agreed to be a superior metal to make jewelry from. It costs a lot more as it weighs a lot more, as Davide mentioned

18kt yellow gold is a totally different story than 18kt white, by the way.

 

I suppose if someone wanted light weight, that would be the only valid "pro" in platinum versus white gold IMO

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Can someone give me the pros and cons of platinum vs white gold? Things I've heard, which I don't know if they're true or not, are:

 

  • Platinum is softer, so it will scratch easier and after some wear it can develop a 'dull' appearance.
  • Platinum being softer means prongs could get bent easier but probably would not break, so perhaps the stone is more secure from loss (It will be a 3.2+ ct round).
  • White gold being harder means the prongs are going to be stronger, but under unusual circumstances may break instead of bending which of course could let the stone fall out, but perhaps the stone is more secure in most situations than in platinum due to this. (Note, I'm looking at a six prong Tiffany-like setting so maybe a non-concern either way)
  • White gold will maintain its shine and color better than platinum.

Some platinum alloys are 'softer' than 14-18kt gold

Platinum prongs are generally superior to gold prongs

White gold isn't 'harder'. Gold alloyed to 14-18kt is more resistant to deformation but more susceptible to erosion.

White gold will maintain a shine but lose it's color and turn yellow. Platinum will always be 'white' and lose its 'shine' as it acquires a patina.

Nickel is a component of white gold and causes an allergic reaction in some people.

Both white gold and platinum can be rhodium plated to create a 'chrome' look.

A lot of white gold is rhodium plated without public notice and must be periodically re-plated to maintain a consistent color.

 

Jewelry weights are in grams.

A ring design that weighs 6-7 grams in 18kt gold will weigh 10+ grams in platinum.

18kt gold is only 75% gold or 4.5 grams vs 9.5 grams of platinum @ Pt 950.

If you continue the math and convert $/oz to $/gr you can understand why platinum jewelry is more expensive.

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Platinum is the superior metal vs 14K white gold.

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White gold will maintain a shine but lose it's color and turn yellow. Platinum will always be 'white' and lose its 'shine' as it acquires a patina.

Nickel is a component of white gold and causes an allergic reaction in some people.

Both white gold and platinum can be rhodium plated to create a 'chrome' look.

A lot of white gold is rhodium plated without public notice and must be periodically re-plated to maintain a consistent color.

 

 

 

 

-------------------

George

Certified mcts

Uk

Edited by george.mikal

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The bottom line is just pick one. :)

White gold because our main concern is the 'safety of the diamond'.

And just go the the 'experts' spending less for now will always cost us more in the (near) future.

Lets cast our vote., to see the stats..

 

'Till then, cheers!

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@davidelevi

 

Just go for the gold..I'm not an expert but I think

the main concern when it comes to platinum vs white gold issue is the sturdiness of the metal on keeping the ring., just correct me if I'm wrong.

My aunt lost her diamond stone and that's really upsetting then she told me, that diamond's perfect match is Gold, but she had chosen platinum because its more expensive ~sort of adding some highlights to her diamond ring., and that was her worst decision ever.

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Sorry to contradict you, but:

 

1. Platinum is as safe or safer than gold in terms of jewellery - what matters (in both cases) is good workmanship and knowledge of the material

2. Any statement as to "sturdiness" in general is difficult to make. It depends on the alloy and how it has been worked. For example, when platinum became a mainstream material for jewellery in the early 1900s it was regarded as a fantastically resistant material compared to the gold and silver alloys that existed at the time

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In nearly every way platinum is 'better'. It's more durable, it's less inclined to change with time, it's better for the jeweler to work with on complicated designs and it's perceived as more 'exclusive'. The downside is the price. For most designs it's 3 to 4 times the price. Whether or not that's a deal killer for you depends on things like your own budget that are outside the realm of this discussion but, all things being equal, take platinum every time.

 

Neil

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where would palladium fit into the mix? I continually read, and am told, that it is a good alternative to platinum due to it's cheaper price, resistance to turning yellow, and "better than gold" durabilty...interested in hearing additional opinions.

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Good alternative to platinum? Yes and no. It's undoubtedly very similar in look ("naturally white"), it's got good wear resistance, and it's about 1/3 of the price of gold (and 1/4 of that of platinum). However, it has its own issues: expertise in workmanship is required, and it's not widespread; it can be brittle, and it feels quite light (density 12 against platinum at 21 and 18k gold at about 17) - think silver but without the polish/reflectivity. Also, palladium seems to be a recurring fashion whenever platinum availability decreases or its price increases significantly (1915-1920; 1938-1946; 2006-now), but it has never really caught the fancy of the market.

 

Would I buy palladium jewellery? Only if I were certain of the skills of the jeweller who worked on it; also, bear in mind that on a ring the cost of the metal is a minor part: a 10g (hefty!) platinum ring has metal worth $500 in it; 18k gold is about $270; palladium about $100. The rest is workmanship and stones.

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