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Princess Cut Question


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Hello, I am new to posting after having been following the threads for a while. I put a deposit down on a ring this morning and had a few questions afterwards (luckily I have 14 days to remove the deposit without an issue). My budget is very small and what I picked out today was visually very good; however after looking at the diamond prices online I have some concern over the cost.


Here is a quick rundown. I had been looking for a square (princess cut) diamond that has a bezel set and small diamonds surrounding the center stone. Sort of like the Tiffany-style rings that you see. I know I'm explaining this poorly, but I had been looking at all the local stores (and online). I had found one that was "ok" at a mall store but it was not graded and had a milky look. The price was cheap, $900 for a 0.46 diamond and setting. Anyway, I went to a local jeweler had a good reputation and they advised that I pick out the setting first and then he brought in three different diamonds. I found the setting I wanted and the three diamonds were 0.53, 0.74 and 0.91 carats, all GIA rated. Of the three, the prices were $1500 - 2200. The 0.74 was the most expensive due to the cut and color (I think it was F or G, VVS1). The 0.91 was 1800 and was IS2 and H color (i believe). The last one was the 0.53 which was H and VS1. I had to rule out the 0.74 due to price limitations. He allowed me to handle the diamonds as much as i wanted to compare the other two. The 0.91 was large enough that a similar setting was needed that was slightly larger. Anyway, I compared the two diamonds against each other both by themselves and in the settings. The 0.53 had so much more brilliancy and lacked the darker look of the larger diamond. Once noting that the setting was going to have to be bigger I ruled it out.


Now, I have looked at how much the 0.53 H VS1 diamond should cost. The "sale" price this weekend at the store was $1500. Online, for the same characteristics, the prices have ranged from 700 to 1700 with the majority being closer to the 1000 mark. It seems like the diamond was highly marked up. To complicate matters, the setting seems to be reasonably priced at $750 (again, based on what I could find that was comparable online). My question is whether the high diamond price should be a concern. The total is $2250 but if the diamond is overpriced I'm concerned that I will try to buy online without seeing the diamond and end up not satisfied.


I have copied the GIA specs just in case they matter (I really don't fully understand all of the dimensions).


Any advice would be greatly appreciated.




Report Type: GIA Diamond Dossier® Date of Issue: January 18, 2008


Laser Inscription Registry: GIA 16701874


Rectangular Modified Brilliant


Measurements: 5.03 x 4.45 x 2.77 mm


Carat Weight: 0.53


Color Grade: H


Clarity Grade: VS1




Depth: 62.2 %


Table: 74 %


Girdle: Extremely Thin to Slightly Thick


Culet: None




Polish: Good


Symmetry: Good


Fluorescence: None


Clarity Characteristics: Feather, Chip

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Two red flags with this diamond that need further investigation:


1. Extremely thin girdle can lead to fracture and breakage. How much surface is extremely thin?


2. Chip: Where is it? If located the point facet which is a very sensitive area, this can lead to fracturing at the slightest impact.

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There really isn't enough information to comment on the specific stone and setting, but perhaps some musings/reflections may help you.


1. The price is not out of line with online prices; bear in mind that just by having a high street (or mall) presence, the jeweller is incurring higher costs than a purely online operation. If they had asked $2000 or more, it would have been easier.


2. The difference between the $700 and the $1700 stones that you find online is in good part due to cut quality. That is critical, and you really haven't been given much info to assess it (although you have noted that for example the .91 stone was "dark" - that is an indication of poor cut). The question is whether the .53 is of such an excellent make to deserve a $500 premium over the "average" princess cut with that size, shape, colour and clarity.


3. The .53 stone you have seen has a couple of things that you should be aware of: it's not square, and it has an extremely thin girdle. Not square is a non issue if you like the idea of a rectangular princess, but squarer stones normally trade at a slight premium. Estremely thin girdle may pose a problem in terms of setting and it may be a durability risk - in fact some damage may already have happened, since the stone has a chip. Again - not necessarily a problem, but it should account for a discount compared to a very well cut stone.


4. Setting. The "pick the setting first" seems a bit unusual as an approach. At the end of the day, you are spending 70% of your budget on the centre stone; surely that should come first? As to it being a good price - it is only if the price on the whole ring is reasonable.


5. Clarity and colour. Why pay a premium for a VS1, when a well chosen SI will not have visible inclusions, and it will cost far less?

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Thank you, Jim. We're glad to be of service.


Just a FYI that Vendors posting here do manufacture and/or list quality Tiffany Legacy replicas on their websites.


Good Luck!

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