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Brilliant W/102 Facets??


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HELP...I was at a Zales Jewelers and was shown a brilliant cut diamond purported to have 102 facets. Knowing only enough about diamonds to be dangerous at this point, I would like to know if this is a valid diamond cut. The diamond refracted light in a beautiful way BUT I wondered if there was anything I should be aware of as I considered buying this diamond.

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There is no such thing as an "invalid" cut. There are plenty of uncommon ones; some work better than others, and some people like some of them more than others.


I would keep in mind three things:


1. Should you come to resell, it's going to be more difficult to resell a proprietary cut than a "plain vanilla" diamond

2. Many proprietary cuts (I think Zales's is called "Leo") are difficult to source, and choice will be more limited than with traditional cuts. Comparisons, tools and rules-of-thumb for diamond selection are also going to be more difficult to find.

3. It's not worth a single cent more unless you can see and truly like the difference. It seems that you like the look. Have you been able to compare it to a truly well-cut "normal" 57 facets diamond?


ETA - rephrased last question

Edited by davidelevi
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Resale value on diamonds is generally a terrible disappointment either way and I would not recommend going into this under the expectation that you will ever see any of your money again. I wouldn’t call that a reason to avoid diamonds any more than it’s a reason to avoid buying fine clothing or most other things but do not go into this thinking you are making an ‘investment’, at least not in the financial sense.


There are quite a few brands with an unusual number of facets and most of the big retailers sell at least one of them. The first step is to decide if you like the look over a more traditional design. If you don’t then you’re done. The physics of the cutting work the same as they do on any other round diamond and you need to be attentive to the crown and pavilion angles as well as the overall look of the stone. They are not all the same. Unfortunately, they will often use the facet count as a way of talking about distracting you from the real issues.


Imagine a mirror. The total light return you see is going to be a function of the lighting and where you are standing, right? Now break the mirror and arrange the pieces on a table. The total amount of reflected light hasn’t changed and it’s going to still be the same whether the pieces are big or small. It also doesn’t matter if you leave the pieces in a jumble or arrange them in an attractive pattern. It’s not correct to say that one pattern is ‘better’ than another so you pick a pattern that suits YOUR fancy. That’s what the facet design is doing. Someone chose a pattern that they liked and, indeed, you may like it too. To answer your question in the title, any arrangement you like is valid. Now hit the dimmer switch on the light. Now THAT makes a difference! That’s what the quality of cutting is doing and it has nothing to do with whether you've got 58, 102 or 500 pieces.


Remember to clean up the broken glass before the kids get into it and make up a good story to explain to the future wife what in the world you were doing with the mirror.



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