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Hearts And Arrows


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Hi everyone!


My boyfriend and I have been doing a bit of research on diamonds as we are currently shopping for engagement rings, and I have come to the conclusion that I would like a hearts and arrows polar bear diamond between 1.0-1.25 carats. My concern is that I have been reading that a lot of jewelers will tell you a diamond is a Hearts and Arrows, when not all jewelers will consider it that. Is there any way to have a confirmation that a diamond is in fact a true hearts and arrows?

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The problem is that there is not a credible definition of a ‘true’ hearts&arrows so different jewelers will apply different standards. GIA and AGSL, the two most respected labs in the world solve this by simply refusing to use the term at all. The solution is to choose your advisor, usually either the selling dealer or your chosen appraiser, and then use THEIR standards. There is no stone on the planet where everyone will agree.



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The Hearts and Arrows pattern can be viewed through a H&A viewer and a consensus and reasonable definition of the pattern is recognizable to both Tradespeople and consumers.


To paraphrase Justice Potter Stewart in Jacobellis v.Ohio (1964). You'll know it when you see it.


Neil is correct that there is no standard definition for the H&A. Both GIA and AGS won't touch it, and IMO there is no likelihood that a standardized definition will ever emerge due in part to an unsuccessful attempt a few years ago by some jewelers to nitpicky define the clefts of the hearts and shaft of the arrows into gradations of A. B. C.


Purchase decisions were recommended based on these arbitrary hard to see/define grades.


While a H&A pattern is a nice thing to have in a diamond and a good starting off point if this is what you want, it is not an absolute guarantee of a beautiful high-octane light performance diamond.


Good Luck!


Edited by barry
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Thanks for all your help. This is a lot more difficult than I imagined!

I've found a jeweller in Alberta that is an authorized Polar Bear Diamond dealer and he has helped us a bit. I've also picked the ring (after a long and arduous journey) and he explained to us that if we picked our diamond specifications he would order the stone from the polar bear diamond people and let us view it before he put it in the ring. Is there any advice you can offer me here? Is there any way of guaranteeing a high-octane light performance diamond? What are the most important qualities? Also, he told us that it was cheaper the way we are doing it (buying the stone seperately and having it put in the ring). Why is this?

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Couple of questions/reflection points for you:


1. Any specific reason why you want a Polar Bear diamond? Would you be ready to sacrifice performance for origin? And what about price?


2. "Advice" regarding what? The only thing you have expressed relatively clearly is your preference for the size and shape of the stone. "Tolerance" for clarity is pretty subjective, with some people feeling they "must" have an IF diamond or else, and others being quite happy with an eye-clean I1 (yes, they do exist). Same for colour, with people liking the icy white of D-F, and others preferring much warmer whites down to L or M.


Many people go for a G-H/VS2-SI1 stone as a good "value-oriented" trade off. I'm not suggesting you go for that by default - I would recommend that you ask your jeweller to show you set and unset diamonds of as many colour and clarity grades as possible, and make up your mind as to what you would like.


3. Light performance depends on three things: cut, cut and cut. Unfortunately this is where things get more complicated. If you read through even a few of the recent threads on here you'll find contrasting views of how to identify a good cut. Roughly speaking, there are those that support a view that specifying a few parameters/proportions (from a reputable lab's grading report) enables a pretty good selection; those that think that various technologies provide a better answer (including those used by the major labs to grade cut); and those for whom the most meaningful "advice" is what comes from direct observation and "live" comparison of stones.

Personally I fall between the last two positions - technology has a place in screening, but ultimately no technology captures all variables, and personal preferences cannot be taken into account anyway.


To what extent is your jeweller ready to show you alternatives or even to show you a truly well cut stone to compare to? From this point of view, insisting on a specific origin or brand name may restrict your options very considerably - even just in terms of which dealers you can go to.


4. I don't see why it would be cheaper to purchase the stone separately, unless the people who sell Polar Bear diamonds aren't particularly competitive on the price of their setting.

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Hi everyone!


Is there any way to have a confirmation that a diamond is in fact a true hearts and arrows?


Yes look at it yourself under a hearts & arrows viewer. Have them provide photos of the actual hearts & arrows images and compare.





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