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Adapting An Ascher Cut Diamond To A Ring Made For An Emerald Cut Diamond (bezel Setting?)


hrsyrider
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After 31 years my husband and I purchased me a new wedding ring. I selected a pave setting made for an emerald cut diamond. The jeweler suggested an ascher cut diamond be set in the center of the ring. They had the stone for some time and were able to offer me a good price for it. Now that it has been set I am not sure that I like the gaps in the top and bottom of the ring where the white gold is visible. When I took it in to have it sized another jeweler at the same store suggested if I wasn't happy with the way it looked I might consider having it bezel set (filling in the spaces with white gold). I am having it sized and getting a price to have it bezel set.

 

My questions are:

 

1. Will it be expensive? Approximately how much?

 

2. Can it be done after the fact and will it look alright?

 

Thanks in advance for any assistance with this!

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I can’t really see enough detail in your picture to tell if a bezel can be retrofitted onto the piece but it looks reasonably likely.

 

I also have no way of knowing if they did what was originally agreed to. If you ordered a bezel and they delivered prongs than the changes should be free. If you ordered prongs, that’s what they gave you, and then you changed your mind, it’s entirely reasonable that you should be charged.

 

Neil

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They originally told me they were going to do a prong setting but when it was returned to me they used a bar setting instead. When I returned to the store to drop it off for sizing a different jeweler assisted me. He asked who had helped me originally and if it was my own stone I had set. I asked why he was asking and he mentioned that it was a very unusual choice of diamond and setting; the square assher in a rectangular emerald setting. I told him I was concerned about the gaps at the top and the bottom of the stone, that dirt might get stuck in there or the white gold would fade and it would look strange. He said that I might want to consider a bezel setting to fill in the gaps at the top and bottom. When I called yesterday to see if they had a quote the original person answered and told me she really disagreed with a bezel setting that it would overshadow the diamond. My husband called back and spoke with the owner of the store and he said they would size it and then we could come in for a consult about what if anything we wanted to do.

 

I am still concerned about the gaps at the top and bottom. When they showed me it originally the diamond was loose and they were not so obvious. I wonder if they would be so obvious had they have gone with the four prongs.

 

Have you ever heard of setting a square stone in a emerald setting?

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He’s right that it was an unusual choice to set a square stone in a rectangular prong setting for exactly the reasons you’ve mentioned above. What to do about it will depend a lot on the way the ring is made. By the nature of the thing you are going to have more metal between the stone and the edge of the ring than you do on the sides and since you aren’t changing the size or count of the small stones in the pave they have to do something with that space whether you are setting with a prong, bezel or whatever. A bezel isn’t going to make it any more rectangular and, although they can fill up the extra space at the ends with metal it does seem like kind of a band aid solution to me. You might want to talk to a different jeweler about it and get recommendations on alternatives. Without seeing it in person there just isn't much I can tell you about your options.

 

Neil

Edited by denverappraiser
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Hi Everyone!

In terms of cost, I'd say a reasonable price would be anywhere from $300-$750.

 

In terms of if it's the right solution, that's a different ball of wax.

It's extremely important that the stone is the right size for the ring.

My experience is that filling in gaps with a bezel ( trying to "fix" the fact that the ring does not fit the stone) is a poor solution, primarily from a visual standpoint. The extra metal might be more apparent than the gaps.

 

 

I hate to say this, but if you're unsatisfied, maybe the jeweler needs to take some further steps- such as providing a new, or different ring.

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So I guess this is the next obvious question; is it reasonable to request that they provide me with a different setting after they have set the stone and sized the ring? I did choose the setting because I really liked it but they assured me the stone would be fine in there and it is sounding like it isn't fine. They are a reputable local jeweler so I really trusted them when they assured me it would look fine in there. Since it really looks a little strange and they set it differently than they originally told me they would should they give me a different setting of equal value with no extra expense?

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I'm really hesitant to criticize any business without knowing specifics- which I am not suggesting you provide- so let's speak in hypothetical terms:

In my opinion a seller offering a ring, and a diamond together should be responsible for making sure everything about the ring and diamond are correct.

For example, if the finger size is wrong, that should be corrected.

 

In a case where the wrong setting was used for a diamond, I believe it's the seller's responsibility to correct it- even if it means providing a new setting.

If they want your continued business, that's what they need to do.

 

 

The difficult part of answering specifically is not being able to really examine the ring in person- if you are happy, that's the bottom line- in other words: although the advice given here is done with the best of intenions, the final arbiiter is your eye.

Looking back over the thread, you yourself noticed something that did not look right....

I'd talk to the seller, and see what type of solution they offer.

 

I always feel that a company will let you know if they value your business depending on how they resolve a problem.

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Thank you! I know these are really good people and I also know they are struggling with the economy. I would just hope that their economic struggles did not play into my purchase in any way.

 

I called this morning to speak with the owner and one of the "seasonal" jewelers returned my call. Unfortunately I was away from my phone and he left a message indicating that they were sizing the ring and were going to do the bezel work at no cost. I called back and spoke with him because last week the owner indicated that they would size it and we would have a consult as to what to do about the setting. When I spoke with the "seasonal" jeweler (he works there during the busy season) he indicated that after further discussion with the owner they thought it was best to fill in the top and bottom areas with white gold; that it would "finish" the ring. He did not think it was practical to do it piece meal. I told him my concerns about the ring and questioned whether it was appropriate for them to sell me an asscher diamond for an emerald setting. He said they were both really nice pieces of jewelery and that once they filled it in he thought it I would love it.

 

I guess I will see on Wednesday if I love it. I am not really the type of person that is so fussy about things but this is the last diamond wedding ring that I will get in this lifetime and I want it to be something I can be proud of. I have waited 31 years for it!

 

I really appreciate you offering me some knowledge and respect your hesitance to criticize the business.

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Well I received a call tonight that it was done! I went to pick it up and sadly they only sized it to 4.5 which is still not small enough; they are going to take it down to a 4. The bezel work looks very nice to me. It was dark when I looked at it but I did use the jewelers ocular to look at it. I think I am going to be very happy with it the way it is! I just hated sending it back again.

 

One last question; when I purchased the ring I was told that the diamond was G clarity and VS1 color. Should I expect to get a certificate or anything? Or is important or necessary? Would that be better for insurance purposes or just a receipt or will I need an appraisal?

 

Thanks again!

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Congratulations. I’m glad you love it. :D

 

The purpose of an insurance replacement appraisal is to provide sufficient documentation so that your insurer can replace the item with another of like kind and quality in the case of a loss and provide sufficient funding to allow them to do that. It’s certainly possible for a selling jeweler to provide sufficient paperwork for that purpose but it definitely should include a written statement about clarity and color along with weights, counts and gradings on the other stones, dimensions, photographs and whatever other details may be necessary for your insurer to match it without looking at the item (since, by the nature of the deal, they will be doing this AFTER a loss after all). If the jeweler didn’t even provide a paper trail that includes the G/VS1 grading information, I sort of doubt that the rest is there so yes, I would recommend getting an appraisal.

 

The G/VS1 grading is an important part of the description and they should include it on the receipt as well.

 

Neil

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Oh shoot! They came by my office today and dropped it off and I totally forgot to ask about the receipt or description! I did give them another ring that I have that is missing a center stone so when they give me a price to replace it, I can ask them. That ring did have a written document regarding the diamonds and clarity but I didn't buy it from them. I wouldn't think it would be a problem providing me with it.

 

At least I have it back and it seems to fit. They sized it a small 4 and it is still a tiny bit loose. I am going to wear it until Monday before we decide if they need to make it smaller.

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Hrsyrider, I don't know what the weather is like where you live, but my wife's fingers change by a good half-size between winter and summer, simply because of temperature changes. If you feel the ring turning around or moving, adding sizing balls or bars may be a more comfortable solution all year round.

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I had that same conversation with them the other day and they looked at me like I had a 3rd eye. Then politely said that they had been doing this for a long time and sizing it smaller was the way to go. I think if it remains loose for the next three days I will suggest that again. Is it something that all jewelers do?

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HI all!

As a dealer, there is an aspect of the purchase that's questionable to me.

 

Again- I am loathe to criticize another seller- so let's speak in general terms:

A 1.00carat G/VS1 Emerald Cut, graded by GIA can cost anywhere from mid three thousands ( for a less desirable, poorly cut stone)- to well over $5000 on the internet- and probalby over $7000 in some high end retail stores.. If it was ever so slightly more imperfect, it would be a VS2- and have a value of about 10% less!

That being the case, I- and all the cutters and dealers I've even known- feel that there's only one reliable way to determine the grade of such costly diamonds- a GIA report.

That's the only way a dealer will pay the additional premium for a VS1.

An AGSL report would also be just as good- but that's the only substitute.

Grade for grade, stones with EGL ( for example) reports can go for up to 50% less than stones graded by GIA

 

Anyway- I don't want to dampen the wonderful news that the work on the ring meets your approval, but this is a forum about diamonds- I would think this stuff is important.

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I was told that it is a .92carat asscher cut diamond that they have had for 2 or 3 years apparently back when the asscher cut was more popular. They did quote me a price for an emerald that they would have had to purchase and the price was in line with what you are estimating. That is why I went with the setting that was made for an emerald cut and the asscher cut. They had them both for some time and were flexible with the price.

 

Also, they have really been struggling with the economy and are having 70% off " the eldest jeweler is retiring" sale. The ring without the center stone was on sale for $660 and we paid $3500 for the total ring including sizing etc. The setting was made by one of their designers and is a take off of the Tiffany's Legacy engagement ring. I looked at other stores and saw similar cuts and qualities for anywhere from $4,500 to over $10,000 (that was D/VS1 or better) including the setting. I will ask for a GIA report but either way I am very happy with the ring now. The only reason I want anything is for insurance purposes no other reason.

 

Also,and this may seem very "Pollyanna" but there is some other history behind the purchase. They have been in the community since 1964 and very involved with the community and charitable organizations that I too am associated with. So the family has been long time acquaintances of mine and my family. Also, If you are familiar with the book out right now "Jewelia" (about 13 women that all went in on the purchase of a diamond necklace and how it has changed their lives) they are the jewelery store from the book and the woman that sold it to me is one of the women. The country club talked about in the book is where I work so I know many of the women. The Jewelia necklace was originally priced at $26,000 but they ended up selling it for $13,000. So they do have a history of making some really good deals! I hope I was one of them but like I said I love it now and hope that I will continue to feel this way.

 

That being said I really do appreciate all of the input I have received and assistance. Without the sound advice I have received I don't think I would have known what to expect from them nor that a

do I see a 3rd eye in the middle of your forehead
look is pretty unique. :D

 

Thanks again.

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Sounds good!

IN terms of the GIA report- now that the stone is set that's going to be impossible ( without removing the diamond- and let's not even go there!!)

 

Based on the price you paid, it sounds like a very nice deal.

 

For insuring the ring, the seller should be able to provide you the correct paperwork- it['s not necessary to have a GIA report to insure the ring.

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