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Same Carat Weight Very Different Size


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I am currently looking at 2 choices, both with a carat weight of 1.2 (Princess cut).


The actual measurements are very different because one has a very thick girdle and the other has a medium girdle. Which do you guys recommend and would the size difference be noticeable? Diamond A(5.73*5.6*4.16) vs Diamond B (6.05*5.97*4.13). Also how can diamond A have almost the same measurements as a 1.17 carat diamond?




Diamond A is cheaper by $500 and has color E while diamond B has a better cut.



Diamond A.


Certificate: GIA Shape: Princess Cut: Premium Carat: 1.2 Color: E Clarity: VS2 Wire Transfer Price: $5,578

Diamond Proportions: Measurements: 5.73-5.6-4.16 Length to Width: 1.02 Depth Percentage: 74.30% Table Percentage: 70% Girdle: VTK Culet: None (Pointed) Polish: Excellent Symmetry: Good Fluorescence: None (Inert) Special Notes: Beautiful Cut








Diamond B

Certificate: GIA

Shape: Princess Cut: Select Idealâ„¢ Carat: 1.2 Color: G Clarity: VS2 Regular Price: $6,217 Wire Transfer Price: $6,036

Diamond Proportions: Measurements: 6.05-5.97-4.13 Length to Width: 1.01 Depth Percentage: 69.20% Table Percentage: 74% Girdle: M Culet: None (Pointed) Polish: Very Good Symmetry: Very Good Fluorescence: None (Inert)

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Cut is the most important factor in diamond beauty. Have you seen reflector photos or other proof of cut performance for these diamonds? Diamond B is listed as "Select Ideal." Is it accompanied by an AGS Diamond Quality Document to show that's it has actually been graded Ideal by the AGS? Or is that the seller's own "nickname" (select ideal). I'd urge you to fully investigate the cut quality of these diamonds.


10 diamonds with the same carat weight can have completely different spreads, just as 10 people who weigh the same can be shaped differently. Examples below... All are 1.32 cts. The diamond on the left carries weight in the girdle and appears smaller face-up. The one in the center is nominal. The one on the right faces up larger but has a shallow pavilion and will not perform well.


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Thank you very much for your response. "Select Ideal" is just the vendors nickname for the cut, "premium" is just a notch below that (these are GIA certified). I trust this vendor (union diamond) based on the almost unanimous high reviews on other websites and their great service. It seems there is always a trade-off between depth and table which your picture implies. What confused me was the fact that both have almost the same depth but very different table measurements.


I will try to get reflector photos, as well as their personal opinions.


I am leaning towards spending $500 more and getting the "better cut".

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Depth and table are not useful ways of evaluating cut, especially with princess cuts.


Depth is the sum of the crown height, girdle thickness and pavilion depth. An extra millimeter in girdle thickness will have a significantly bigger affect on the weight than an extra millimeter in pavilion depth while producing the same depth measurement. You’ll also notice that the pavilion geometry of a princess is not a simple cone the way it is with a round (it’s not really a cone on a round either but it’s a lot closer). At the center of each side is a lump that sticks out a bit. Some are much more 3-dimensional down here than others. How much this sticks out and the general shape of it has a major affect on the weight. It also has a huge effect on the optics. Comparing the total depth, width and length is simply not a useful way of evaluating the cutting. You MUST look at the stone or trust the judgment of someone else who can look at it. A GIA grading report does not contain sufficient information and wishing that depth/table measurements were sufficient because that’s what’s available simply does not make it true.


Reflector photos are far more useful for this purpose and personal opinions from a trusted adviser even more so.




Edited by denverappraiser
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Regarding labels; the dealer's cut description may not mean a lot, especially if they don't actually have the diamond to look at in-person.


To that end, be sure to nail the seller down on whether they actually have the diamonds you are considering. Some internet sellers are "drop-shippers," meaning they sell from lists provided by suppliers...they may even try to describe the diamond to you based on what a supplier has said...but they have never actually seen the diamond they are selling you. A dealer who is actually holding the diamond and doing proper gemological analysis/assessment on your behalf can provide actual images including (hopefully) a reflector image such as ideal-scope - and preferably both ideal-scope and ASET images. If they can't provide these things you should question whether or not they are actually holding the stone.

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You guys really know your stuff. Very interesting to see that depth has so many variables. It seems that valuing diamonds is as much an art as a science.


The vendor I believe does order the diamonds from other sources. The salesperson agreed to have both diamonds shipped to him so that he could compare them. He mentioned that the second diamond looked visibly bigger than the first one, and in his opinion has almost identical brilliance. I will try to get him to send a reflector image. Thank you for your input.

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