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Inspection of Custom ERing Setting


kirghizstan
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I will be picking up the ERing I bought for my girl this week which I had to have a setting custom made for, but my question is, what should I do to check the quality of the craftmanship. Should I take a look at the thing under magnification, or something else? And what good and bad things should I be looking for.

 

Incase you need to know it is a 1ct princess cut diamond center stone in a cathedral setting that contains channel set princess cut diamonds along both sides.

 

Thank you for the help.

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It is very difficult for someone not experienced in looking at custom made jewelry to identify what is and what is not a problem.. And magnification can often confuse the issue even further..

 

But some basic things to look for that easy to spot with the naked eye.. Are the prongs all approximately the same size and evenly spaced?? Do you see any uneven shape to the shank of the ring when you look through the finger hole?? Do the stones all site on the same plane with each other?? Is one or more stone tilted so that it doesn't match up with the rest of the stones in the ring?? etc..

 

If you still have a doubt, an appraiser may be able to provide you with the confidence you may be looking for in the piece that you had made..

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It’s both harder and easier than you think. I agree with Steve that a microscope is usually a mistake. Look for symmetry where it’s supposed to be symmetrical. This means that the sides of the shank should match, stones should be level, prongs should be evenly spaced, etc. Check each prong to see if it snags on a piece of fabric. Check the polish in areas where it’s supposed to be polished, even between the prongs and the inside of the ring. Look at the welds that hold the various components together, especially the heads. See if you can move the stone in the setting and hold it up right next to your ear and tap it with a finger. Loose stones sometimes rattle when you do this.

 

With a loupe, inspect each tip to see if it’s got a seat below the stone and a tip above. Inspect each stone to make sure it hasn’t been damaged. Pay particular attention to the points of princesses and marquises and the area directly below the prongs. With non-diamond gems, look for scratches on the table and crown. Look for a sizing seem at the bottom center of the shank. It should be clean throughout, especially between and below stones.

 

Check to make sure it’s the right size.

 

At the risk of sounding self-serving, this is an area where independent appraisers really earn their keep. A good one will be both skilled at identifying problems and will be able to tell you exactly what the problem is, how to explain it to the jeweler, how it can be repaired and what to look for when you get it back.

 

Neil

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