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need help with diamond and metal


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I would appreciate all of your opinions and advice about this. My ring is to be 2.5mm wide with a 3ct princess cut center stone and 2.5 pts on the top of the band, 2 pointers on the inner sides and 1-1.5 on the prongs.


I like the sidestones to stand out and I don't want to see too much metal as I like the clean look. I would like to know how should I have the sidestones set, bead, channel, prong, shared prongs, 3sided pave etc... and why?? And which one of these settings if any will make the sidestones show more or look bigger?


Also, I am not sure if I should go with platinum or WG and if WG does is matter if it is 14/18K? And my jeweler is telling me to go with G/SI1 sidestones but I am wondering if we spend the extra and get F VS or even E VVS would it make a noticeable difference in such small size of stones ( as otherwise I wouldn't want to spend more as the tcw for the sidestones is almost 3cts so I don't want to spend so much more if it will not be noticeable) Oh I am not sure about the specs of the centerstone I know it is E-F color I think VS or VVS.


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Follow the design and advice of the jeweler who is building it. This is a difficult setting job and they are the ones who are going to have to make it work. Personally, I rather like VS melee and I think it’s worth the extra cost to match the color to your center stone.


I would be nervous about the prong design on this. Each diamond you set onto a prong involves drilling a hole in the prong in which to set the stone . Your prongs are long and full of holes. This doesn’t make for the most secure setting without some very careful engineering. If you buy good insurance I suppose it’s not your problem but it would sure be a shame to have the stone fall out.


E-F, VVS1-VS2 is a huge range on your center stone. If you don’t have details on it, you really should consider having it professionally examined prior to setting. This is on the order of a $20,000 issue.



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I agree with Neil about the setting method- trying to "mico-manage" the setting means you don't have confidence in the person doing the work..which can be a problem if your diamond is worth a lot of money.

The ring in the photo has a lot of "bead setting"


VS melee is very nice- although well cut high color Si .02's can look very much like the VS melee.

Still, if we're setting a fine center, we use the VS stuff.



Platinum is the ultimate choice for settings. It costs more, but makes up for it in durability, and long term appearance.

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well, I made some modifications to the prongs to make them less box like and thick, so this is the wax of the ring with 2.5pointer 2mm on top, 2 pointers inside and 1-1.5 pointers on the prongs and the top will have double claw prongs. Are these stones big enough or will look cluster like?


The jeweler has told me to save the money and do it in 14kwg and FG SI1 melee as he says I wouldn't notice the difference really and not too much metal showing on the ring to go with platinum.


I have to decide whether to have 3sided pave with stones all around and no metal like the pic of the ring and also if I want to have it chanel set, bead set or else.


As for the centerstone, DFH has the papers and stuff, it is a 3ct 8mm princess E, I think VVS. So what do you experts recommend, the 3sided pave with no metal just stones and what kind of setting for the stones, and what metal.


Platinum will cost us like $800-1000 more and VS sidestones I was told an extra $600, E/VVS extra $900 or so, so is it worth spending all that , will there be a difference I will notice?




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  • 3 weeks later...

Don't know about the 14kt. 18kt is a nicer gold - more the world standard than 14kt, but the 14kt is stronger ('cause there is less gold! ... which is of course quite soft). What is the jeweler using as the rest of the amalgam with the 14kt? Nickel? Plantinum family metal? Many people have an allergic reaction to nickel and break out in rash whenever they wear jewelry containing it.


Platinum would be best. Harder, more scratch resistant. But all metal will become scratched over time. Just adds to its character.

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