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57/66/88/105 facets - is it really important?


yitfeng
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Hi Everyone,

 

I came across the Charlotte Atelier 105 facets diamond, "Gabrielle" at a jewelry fest the other day. It looked great... However, I've also came across other diamonds in different cuts with diff number of facets (and being a diamond lover) - they all looked great!! :P

 

I have a 66 facet diamond, and with the naked eye, I could see the difference in brilliance against a 57 or 58. It definitely sparkles more.

 

With the Gabrielle having 105 facets, does it mean that it's a higher quality cut? :)

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Quality of cut is a difficult thing to define but for most people, facet count is not the most important issue. The behavior of light in a diamond has far more to do with the angles of the various facets and the relationships between them than the number of facets.

 

Here’s an example:

If you look at a small mirror, you will see 100% light return. If you break the mirror and arrange the pieces on a floor tile, you will still see the same amount of light return but the overall look will be quite different. The size of the pieces and the pattern of the arrangement will affect whether you like the look but it doesn’t change the total amount of light that you are seeing returned.

 

Personally, I like stones cut with unusual facet patterns but are still subject to the same rules of optics as any other. There are well cut examples and poorly cut examples of each.

 

Neil Beaty

GG(GIA) ISA NAJA

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Hi Everyone,

 

I came across the Charlotte Atelier 105 facets diamond, "Gabrielle" at a jewelry fest the other day. It looked great... However, I've also came across other diamonds in different cuts with diff number of facets (and being a diamond lover) - they all looked great!!  ;)

 

I have a 66 facet diamond, and with the naked eye, I could see the difference in brilliance against a 57 or 58. It definitely sparkles more.

 

With the Gabrielle having 105 facets, does it mean that it's a higher quality cut? :lol:

Hi Yit Feng,

 

Thank you for your kind comment on the Gabrielle Diamond!

 

Actually, it is less important that the Gabrielle Diamond has 105 facets for the round shape.

 

If you do a check online, you will find some diamonds with far more facets, even a 244-faceted diamond.

 

However, some of these diamonds are less popular than others, and it is not necessarily the facet count that is important.

 

It is the facet ARRANGEMENT that is important. When Gabi Tolkowsky was in Singapore during JewelFest, he made several speeches which emphasised that.

 

The Gabrielle is essentially a triple-brilliant cut, based on the original facet pattern of the Tolkowsky Ideal-Cut parameters. However, on top of the normal 57-facets, Gabi added 40 facets at the pavilion and 8 facets at the crown, to enhance the scintillation (sparkle) and dispersion (fire) within the diamond.

 

We have found from experience that with the Gabrielle facetting, there is a halo effect on the crown with you view the diamond face-up and you get an optical illusion of the diamond growing in size as you put it further from your eye.

 

The 40 additional facets at the pavilion increase the light return at the center of the diamond up through the table to your eye, thereby increasing its brilliance to your eye. We also found that this has an effect of making the diamond look whiter to the eye.

 

The Gabrielle Cut is a result of Gabi Tolkowsky's experience in facetting 2 of the world's greatest diamonds: the 273-carat D-colour flawless CENTENARY (the world's largest such diamond, valued at US$100 million), and the 545-carat fancy yellow-brown GOLDEN JUBILEE (the world's largest facetted diamond).

 

In summary, it is not about the number of facets. Emphasising this would be a short-lived exercise in marketing. It is about understanding the journey of light within the diamond, and maximizing it in terms of brilliance, scintillation and fire to your eye.

 

If you have the time, do drop in with your diamond and see the difference for yourself. We will always be pleased to show it to you.

 

Hope this helps you understand the thinking process behind the Gabrielle Cut a little.

 

Best regards,

Stephen Tan

Charlotte Atelier

Singapore

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