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Quality Question


tvanparys
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I am getting ready to buy the Diamond for the Setting I have.

 

I am wondering is the Price for a IF or VVS1 or VVS2

worth the difference from A VS2 or VS1?

I know the size iam getting which is a .64 to a .68.

I have been finding IF and color rating of D for about 4,700 to 5,000

but i can get the same size stone in a VS1 or VS2 for 2,300 or 3,000

 

I am just wondering is the price difference worth it?

 

or should i just stick to it and but a IF color rating D, and know that its top notch quality?

 

also is there much difference in Color Rating D E F?

please help

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Color and clarity are important, but also the cut grade as well is the most important part of all. You don't really have any cut grade info down. For a comparison, we have an AGS .65 ct. VVS2 E that is ideal cut, hearts and arrows and guaranteed light performance and ours is running $3985.

Do you know how well cut your D IF was? Did it have a lab report from GIA or AGS. Have you got to see any of the diamonds that you mentioned above?

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There’s a lot to be said for going with the ‘best’. Unfortunately, this can be a little difficult to define. D-IF isn’t the whole story. The light performance of the stone has more to do with the cut than with either the clarity or the color. For properly graded stones, there will be no visible difference in stones above VS2 although there will be details that become apparent under magnification. The decision to go with IF is usually because of the symbolism of the Flawless word in the title. For many people this is valuable and worth the premium required to get it but there is no way for anyone else to be able to answer this for you. It depends on you and your bride. Color grading is a similar sort of issue. The steps between grades are quite tiny but they add up. To answer your question, no, there isn’t much difference between a D, an E and an F. Is it worth it? This will depend on you. They ARE different.

 

As has been mentioned above, the beauty of the stone has a great deal to do with the cutting. When dealers are selling stones with superb light performance, this is usually proudly mentioned in the advertisement. Terms like ‘ideal’, ‘super-ideal and ‘hearts & arrows’ are used pretty freely and sometimes imprecisely. Pay attention to what they say, ask them what they mean by the various terms and actually look at the stones before you lock in the deal. The best dealers are usually thrilled to show you why their stones are better than their competitors’. If they don't mention the cut, it's probably not because they forgot, it's because they wanted you to look elsewhere.

 

To quote the great Oz: "Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain".

 

Neil Beaty

GG(GIA) ISA NAJA

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I am looking for an I deal cut Diamond and Round in shape

 

I dont know if that makes a difference at all or not.

 

i would rather have an ideal cut Diamond than an IF, bt i do want to buy a D color Diamond and after looking i am finding that when looking at a FI or a VVS1 or VS2 you cant see the difference.

 

I am in the denver, CO area and i got the setting at Shane.co, but not sure if I want to get the Diamond there or from a Diamond seller from this site

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There are some pretty good reasons to have the setting labor done by the same company that supplies the mounting but it usually isn’t necessary to buy the diamond there if you are otherwise motivated to shop elsewhere. Certain stores will charge differently for the setting fees on stones that they didn’t sell but I don’t think Shane does this. It may be necessary to change the prong assembly on your ring in order to fit the stone that you end up choosing but most ring designs are made to allow this modification fairly easily. Your salesperson at the store should be able to tell you what your limits are.

 

Online diamond dealers will describe their inventory in different fashions. What you are quoting looks like a listing of some of the data from a GIA report.

My guess is that this is:

Weight – color – clarity – depth – table – polish – symmetry – length x width x depth. I’ve no clue what the 3003 might be. Price maybe?

 

The premium associated with ideal cuts is considerably less than the premium associated with IF. If you must pick one or the other, I think you’ve made a wise decision. I would again encourage you to make sure you understand what the various dealers mean by their use of the term ‘ideal’. It’s not always the same.

 

Neil Beaty

GG(GIA) ISA NAJA

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This is an information Page from the Shane Company (which is where I bought the setting) I am thinking about buying the Center Diamond from them as well

 

Is this an accurate description of diamond Clarity?

 

FL Flawless, Shows no inclusions or blemishes of any sort under 10X magnification when observed by an experienced grader. Extremely rare.

 

IF Internally Flawless, Has no inclusions when examined by an experienced grader using 10X magnification Very rare.

 

VVS1, VVS2 Very, Very Slightly Included, Contains minute inclusions that are difficult even for experienced graders to see under 10X magnification.

 

VS1, VS2 Very Slightly Included, Contains minute inclusions when observed with effort under 10X magnification.

 

SI1, SI2 Slightly Included, Contains inclusions that are noticeable to an experienced grader under 10X magnification.

 

I1 Imperfect. Obvious inclusions, Visible without magnification, but not at a quick glance.

 

I2, I3 Imperfect. Obvious inclusions, Visible without magnification, and without having to look very hard to notice them.

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That’s straight out of the old GIA training manual and it’s the scale used by most US gemologists. Accuracy is an entirely different question. There are quite a few terms in those definitions that can cause problems.. ‘Experienced’ , ‘minute’, ‘noticeable’, ‘obvious’, and even ‘visible’ are all judgment calls that will vary from one grader to the next. In particular, the boundaries from one grade to the next are not always drawn the same. For example, not everyone has the same idea of the difference between obvious (I1) and noticeable (SI2) or between inclusions that are difficult to see (VVS2) and those that require effort to see (VS1). These decisions can result in a considerable difference in the pricing.

 

Neil Beaty

GG(GIA) ISA NAJA

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Cut is King and the most important of the C's. A well cut stone in VS and even SI clarity will look as good as a comparable cut IF clarity stone and save you a heap of money that you can use on the setting.

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I am getting ready to buy the Diamond for the Setting I have.

 

I am wondering is the Price for a IF or VVS1 or VVS2

worth the difference from A VS2 or VS1?

I know the size iam getting which is a .64 to a .68.

I have been finding IF and color rating of D for about 4,700 to 5,000

but i can get the same size stone in a VS1 or VS2 for 2,300 or 3,000

 

I am just wondering is the price difference worth it?

 

or should i just stick to it and but a IF color rating D, and know that its top notch quality?

 

also is there much difference in Color Rating D E F?

please help

Well it depends on who you ask.

 

Some say S1 clarity is fantastic, others say VS1-2 is, and others still say VVS or IF/FL is the only way to go.

 

It boils down to how each of us understands the word "quality" and just to make it more complicated some may in fact be looking for a slightly yellow stone as in their mind it produces a warmer glow. Picking the color is down to personal interpretation of quality and taste.

 

I've attached an image combining some photos of how the color grading changes. Look at D-F, can you really spot a difference? However look at F and G and you can, more so between F and H. The F appears so white next to these.

 

As for clarity, it's more to do with your peace of mind that you've bought a quality stone. Yet again what is quality? To some it's the "I cannot see anything with the naked eye hence it's a great diamond", to others it's "Unless I mentally know it's near perfect I cannot feel satisfied from my purchase". Which to these groups do you belong?

 

See what your budget is and work from there.

 

Also between .64 and .68 there might be a very small difference in size, so small you'll be thinking which is which when put on a table in front of you. This is because these carat sizes in Ideal cut proportions are about 5.56mm to 5.64mm wide. This is what makes that extra 0.04ct.

 

Concentrate on cut, not only to get the most biggest looking diamond within the given carat range but also to find one that has the more light reflection. Look at the depth, table %'s and crown, pavilion angles.

 

As Barry/Jan/Others here will confirm even if you say find an Ideal cut diamond if it's crown angles are off scale then it's light reflection may be inferior. For example look for crown angles between 33.7-35.8 degrees for it to be an Ideal cut.

post-2-1116756654.jpg

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