Jump to content

Emerald cut diamond eternity band


Jan84
 Share

Recommended Posts

Good evening,

It‘s been seven years since my engagement / wedding and this forum had been incredibly helpful in educating me how to buy a great solitaire engagement ring.

I went with a round diamond with a hearts & arrows cut from Whiteflash. Based on the advice here I went down to VS and G and invested in the „best“ possible cut. The diamond was a smashing success ;-))

I would love to get my wife an eternity band with emerald cut diamonds for the birth of our child. Was thinking of .6 carat stones (which would get us to 10.8 ct total weight with 18 stones needed for the band.)

I went through the old posts on emerald cut diamonds and the gist seems to be that it is super difficult or impossible to pick emerald cuts based on numbers only. As I am looking for 18 (mounted) stones, I cannot realistically see them in person before buying, which would suggest it comes down to choosing the right vendor.

So a few questions where I would be very grateful for your help 🙂

1) would you say that G and VS1 would be (for untrained eyes and under real life conditions) be indistinguishable in terms of color from better rated stones and „eye clean“? For round cuts that has proven the case, at least to me, and it seems to be the same with ECs, but would love your views.

2) Any advice on vendors? I was very happy with Whiteflash back then but open for other suggestions. Any vendors specializing in or being known for ECs?

3) is there any equivalent to the hearts and arrows cut in an EC? Didn’t find anything in my research so far 😉

many thanks, Jan

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Jan, welcome (again) to Diamond Review!

Super congratulations on the new project - it sounds like it will be really lovely. Oh, and of course on the birth of your child. 🤪

26 minutes ago, Jan84 said:

it is super difficult or impossible to pick emerald cuts based on numbers only.

Much more the latter than the former, unfortunately. There are also far fewer numbers to "help" with the picking in a non-round report.

19 minutes ago, Jan84 said:

As I am looking for 18 (mounted) stones, I cannot realistically see them in person before buying, which would suggest it comes down to choosing the right vendor.

I would agree to the second part (choosing the vendor first); the first part, I think, depends largely on the vendor. Obviously, if you are looking for something ready-made, then it's unlikely you will see the stones loose before buying; however if you work with someone that will find the stones for you, it is very possible that you could see them loose and - in my opinion - if you want a really good match, that is an essential step (whether in person or via good quality video/photos).

22 minutes ago, Jan84 said:

would you say that G and VS1 would be (for untrained eyes and under real life conditions) be indistinguishable in terms of color from better rated stones and „eye clean“?

Yes. In fact, considering that you are talking of relatively small stones, I would go down to H and VS2 without too much concern; the main thing (IMHO) is that the shape and look of the stones match as well as possible; one grade in colour will not usually be visible once the stone is set, but differences in cut and shape may be more apparent. I would rather "flex" on the colour (and clarity is - visually - largely in the eye of the beholder: there are SI1 and SI2 that are totally eye-clean) than on overall matched appearance.

25 minutes ago, Jan84 said:

Any advice on vendors? I was very happy with Whiteflash back then but open for other suggestions. Any vendors specializing in or being known for ECs?

I don't know anyone that specialises in EC; however, I would suggest that you decide what approach you want to have and find people that want to work with you based on that approach - what I mean is that you can go from near-zero involvement (and lowest cost) by finding someone that will provide a ready-made good quality band with good stones, or you can go to the point where you vet each and every stone together with them... at a much higher cost (not just monetary - time and commitment on your side too!), or even get them cut to spec (as far as possible).

30 minutes ago, Jan84 said:

is there any equivalent to the hearts and arrows cut in an EC?

Nope. That's partly because ECs are far less popular, partly because they have much more variability in cut than rounds: 3 or 4 tiers of pavilion facets, more or less canted corners, different aspect ratios... none of which makes for a 'simple', symmetry-based solution to the cut (and resulting appearance) problem. Bummer.

Just one non-requested piece of advice: consider carefully whether you actually want a full eternity band, or whether it may make more sense to go for a three-quarters or even half. Apart from the difficulty of finding 10-14 well matched stones being exponentially less (literally!) than the difficulty of finding 18, people's shape changes with time, and a full eternity band is impossible to resize or adjust in any way. A 3/4 or 1/2 can be resized to some, limited, extent, and in any case is much easier to get right-sized for the current finger size.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome back.

I agree about picking your vendor first. I would add to that that I would start with a vendor where you've got prior personal experience and were happy. That is to say, go back to Whiteflash. I'd leave the door open to others if there's a good enough reason to switch but don't mess with success.

I would also add a warning. 0.60 EC's are going to be about 3-4mm thick. Add a little bit for the structural part at the bottom of the mounting, say 1mm, and we're talking about a ring that's 5mm thick between your fingers. That's a lot. Figure a typical pencil is about 6mm in diameter. Hold two of those between your fingers and see if it bugs you. If you've got super big knuckles so there's a lot of space in there you may be able to pull this off but us 'regular' people want to see on the order of half of that. You may be designing a ring that ends up unwearable.   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I haven't seen "them" (meaning Brian's EC) - I have no reason to think they aren't as carefully cut as his rounds, which are definitely very precisely cut; whether you like them is an entirely different question. Back to Neil's observation on depth... the proportions that BG claims to have found as 'good' may or may not be helpful. Finding 18 (or even 10) matched ones may be an issue, since there are none listed for sale yet!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

AGS-0 emerald cuts have been a commercial disaster for years. The problem is with several issues. The biggest is that it's quite a bit more work for cutters to hit that 'sweet spot'. There's more waste in the process and there's more time required.  It's not luck. All of that equals money. Higher prices for superficially similar stones. The cutters haven't wanted to take the risk so they just don't do it. To some extent AGSL is a victim of their own success. Due to the success of their rounds, where an AGS-2 is seen as an unsalable crap grade that either needs to get certed by a different lab (GIA calls most of them excellent) or deeply discounted, the market wants to see zero or nothing. No grade at all is better than even just a pretty good grade. I applaud Brian for giving it a run and I hope he does great with it. In a largish 'solitaire' type setting they'll be fabulous. This all leads to the problem Davide is addressing. You'll be hard pressed to find a matched pair, much less 18 matched 60 pointers that also match on clarity and color.  Unlike Davide, I HAVE seen them, and they are lovely, but I agree that you won't be able to fill this order at any price. 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
  • Create New...