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Starting your own inventory

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Hello, I am joining a friend family business in the watch and jewlery business and i am extremely interested on building a inventory of round brillant Diamond from 0,5 to 3carat max.

A lot of people are already coming to me to sell their loose diamond, they are usually not GIA certified. I have been learning online for quite sometimes and my goal at the moment is to define what are the essential tool that i need in order to make educated and worthy buying decision.

I have already purshared a Gemlogis Vista Diamond Tester Segregator, as i think it is probably the most important first step, now i m looking at a tool that will allow me to obtain accurante measurement of the cut. especially around table%, depht%, crown and pavillon angles.

I would like to know if you think this is the right tool for me to purschase and if you can recommend a specific machine, I was looking at the Sarine DiaScan, but you might recommend some other options.

Also would love if you can also guide me on some other essential tool, that i have missed so far, and that would help me to be effective in my inventory selection.

and thank you for your precious help 

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Hi Thomas,

I use a Sarine diascan and am very happy with it.  OGI out of Israel is their biggest competitor for this sort of equipment. They're a little cheaper and also very popular.  Honestly, most people do it with a loupe and some practice.  

That said.... Are you serious?  The most important thing is skill on the part of the operator, not the tools.  I definitely would not call a screener for type IIA diamonds the first and most important first step but the Gemlogis isn't a bad tool.  I would call the most important some education, a loupe and a lamp.  If you're trying to train yourself, reflectors like Idealscopes or ASETs are pretty helpful and less than 1% of the price of the Sarine thing.  

Do you plan on buying inventory based on your own grading talents backed with your own money?  What do you plan to DO with this inventory after you get it?  Retail them?  Sell them to the trade?  That's the hard part.  You're probably going to have to GIA them anyway.  

If you want to be a jeweler, and I do think it can be a pretty good gig for the right person, I think you're focusing on the wrong area.  Selling is way harder than buying, and people who are good at the selling part usually find that sources aren't that hard to find.  


Edited by denverappraiser
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Hello Neil, thank you so much for your reply.

Yes, i agree with you, i am currently taking the GIA GD so that i can be confident with the base knowledge required. If all goes well, i will do the GIA GG. Thank you for your feedback on the Gemlogis.

I also have with me a red reflector from ideal-scope.com for first optical review, but i am mindful that getting exact cut measurements is also one of key metrics. I could use a GIA gauge but i m not sure if i will get accurate enough results.

Regarding the lamp, can you recomend a lamp tool with spottlights and diffused lighting mode? thx a lot for that :)

Do you plan on buying inventory based on your own grading talents backed with your own money? YES
My plan to to sell them to the trade in the first place. I would love to go into the path of jeweler once i have more experience.

Yes, I will have to GIA them all once purchased.

essential tools:
GD course: essential.
Lamp loupe: essential (if you can recommend a good Lamp system as per your experience, would be awesome)/
idealscopes: essential.
Scanning machine for grading: eventually.
Stone detector: eventually.

Do you see anything other essential tool that can help with substantial benefits?

Cheers and thank you a lot for taking the time to answer my first message :)


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You’ll need a Leveridge gauge or equivalent. Personally I like presidium equipment but there are lots of choices. Get a good scale. Uv light. Thermal tester. The tool that usually chokes beginning buyers is a set of diamond color masters (not cz’s).  A good microscope should be high on your list. A good camera (not just a cell phone). Tweezers, trays, and assorted things like that. You'll need good data sources and good contacts for sales. 

Are you expecting to set up an office where people bring things to you for sale or are going to be a traveling ’picker’ buying from places like pawn shops where you go to them (and take your equipment with you)?

Edited by denverappraiser
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By the way, as much as I'm a fan of GIA education for the right circumstances, I'm not yet convinced your situation applies. It's about like learning to ride a bike by reading a book.  Practice and good feedback are keys. You do need to practice the right things but it's on you, not so much the school. 

Edited by denverappraiser
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Hi Neil, thank you for your latest details, and yes, I need to keep my equipment portable as I will be on the go quite often, I plan to buy from individual but also from pawn shops and similar places, also I need to visit some buyers and be able to show them the diamond properly, so I m very much on the "being mobile" side.

Based on your feedback and research, I came up with this starter list of essentials:

The total is around 1500USD which is pretty good I imagine and thank you for your tips on some website, it is extremely useful.

The only thing missing is the Microscope, you mention that this should be on the top of the list.
I need to wrap my head around Clarity and Inclusion, but do you think a 10x and 20x loupe could work. I know it is not as good as having the tow eyes on the stone, but I appreciate your input on that.

And if you can recommend a Microscope manufacturer with a reasonable price, would be awesome as well,

Cheers Neil, and thx again for your precious help,





Gemlogis VISTA + loupe 10x + Gauge + Tweezer + Cloth


Diamond tester segregator




Inclusion, Clarity


Ideal-Scope Kit + UV and LED light loupe 10x + Tweezer + stone holder


Light leakage, symmetry, cut quality.


Lamp for diffuse daylights and LED

Kassoy ecommerce

Brightness / Fire, Scintillation






diamond color masters






Cut measurement


Loupe 20x


Clarity Inclusion detection





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A loupe is a fairly poor substitute for a microscope (and in diamond grading a microscope is a fairly poor substitute for a 10x loupe; you do need both). It's not just the stereo vision, but darkfield illumination cannot be simulated easily with a loupe. A decent microscope (new) will set you off at least ~$1500 or so. GIA used to sell their microscope to non-students, but I don't know if they still do; I have (and am reasonably happy with) the Gem-A scope, and they do sell to everyone, but it may be a bit of a palaver to get it from the UK to the US. https://shop.gem-a.com/

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Get a thermal diamond tester.  Ebay has them cheaply.

I wouldn’t get the kit from idealscope.  The $25 one is just fine for what you’re doing unless it’s intended to be part of the sales presentation. As a warning on sales presentations, it’s unlikely that what you buy will be very impressive under an IS unless you get into the recutting business. That’s an entirely different can of worms. Most of what’s out there is pretty bad in terms of cutting, and most sellers don’t want to highlight that. The only problem with the $25 one is that the lens is made of plastic, so you need to be careful not to damage it as you schlep it around. There are better sources for tweezers and the like. 

$125 won’t get you a single color master, much less a set. The one you linked to is CZ, which is not the same thing. As mentioned previously, this is the #1 stickler for people getting into this business. CZs are trouble.  Theoretically, synthetics would be ok but in practice I've never seen a set. 

Those are nice enough lamps, but I’ll warn you they’re a little bit fragile if you’re going to be on the road with it.  Again, consider your purpose. The sales presentation is different than buying.  Ott makes a lot of choices that are popular. By the way, the lamp is for color grading, not brightness/fire/scintillation. If you’re traveling, lack of standardized lighting at client sites is a HUGE problem.

Buy a better loupe.  10x Hastings triplet. I use a Nikon but there are others as well. I”ve had the same loupe for decades. Schneider is well regarded.  Expect to spend over $100, not $12. Look to Kassoy, not ebay.  While we're at it, cheap tweezers suck.  

If you are doing work at a client site, bringing in a microscope mostly isn’t a choice. They’re too cumbersome to travel with,  Certainly not a good one. A decent scope will be expensive. My primary one is made by Wild Heerbrugg but you have to do a retrofit to get a darkfield.  GIA Instruments sells them. Meiji Techno is popular. Don’t skimp here. If you really get into the grading business, this will become your #1 go-to tool.  $1500 probably isn’t enough.

Get a camera with a good lens and practice with it.  You'll find it more useful for sales than you ever imagined. 


Edited by denverappraiser
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