davidelevi

A-List Jeweler
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Everything posted by davidelevi

  1. davidelevi

    What are your thoughts on this diamond?

    What does this mean? How does this help the OP?
  2. davidelevi

    What are your thoughts on this diamond?

    It looks very nice on paper. Whether one would rather spend money on things one cannot see (F vs. G and VVS1 vs. SI1) or size is a personal choice. Not on a VVS... or even on an SI.
  3. davidelevi

    Review of HRD 1.02ct F VVS2 3x VG

    This doesn't sound like something you love at first sight... or something you anticipated getting for 21 years. The key question here, independent of numbers, letters, prices and anything else is: do you like it? Secondly, if you don't love it, can you (he) return it without penalty and change it for something else? What would the something else need to do differently? That depends quite a bit on who graded it F/VVS2. Assuming it's HRD (one of the labs that uses the label "Fine White"), you are at least reasonably certain it is an F/VVS2. If it's somebody else, it depends on who it is! The other major factor impacting prices is where you buy. A luxury jeweller in Antwerp or Brussels (I assume, from your name!) is one thing, a non-descript internet retailer is quite another. For what it's worth, similar stones are retailed on the internet for between USD 6,300 and 7,700. Add on European VAT at ~20% and change into €, and you have a possible retail price of between €7,000 and €8,500 - on the internet; in a retail store, prices will almost certainly be higher and could be 50%-100% higher (or more!) in a "high luxury brand" store like Cartier or Van Cleef.
  4. davidelevi

    Clean your Diamonds especially in your engagement ring

    What? Using square steel pipes for cleaning diamond rings? I want to see that. Your spamming has been reported, but it was so funny that I just removed the link and left the quote. @hermann feel free to delete if you think it's not appropriate.
  5. davidelevi

    on the hunt for the perfect emerald

    @denverappraiser Thank you for the help. The footers/signatures seem to have reappeared in the meantime, though yours has gained a couple of extra spaces in it... Not much to add to Neil's list - in fact, my main criterion in areas where I collect/buy stuff as a consumer has always been "can I trust this person", and aside from a moderate amount of politeness, the objective attributes of "trust" are the first two of Neil's criteria: do they know what they are talking about, and are they honest.
  6. davidelevi

    on the hunt for the perfect emerald

    Hi there, welcome to Diamond Review! For what it's worth, here are my four pieces of generic advice: 1. Don't obsess over letters and numbers. They are important to establish a fair price, but that's where their usefulness ends: there are beautiful M/SI2 and ugly D/IF stones, and there are a lot more "numbers" that make an emerald cut than the 3 or 4 you find on a lab report. 2. Trust your eyes and your "heart" (OK, brain cortex and limbic system, actually, but never mind) - especially in direct comparisons. If possible, see the stones in person, and if not establish clear rules for penalty-free returns. 3. Buy the difference you can see. D to G and FL to VS1 will all look white and eye-clean. There is no scientific reason to set a grade boundary between (say) D and E where it is, and neither is there a scientific reason to set a magnification of 10x for calling a stone "flawless" or VVS1. 4. Choose the dealer before you choose the stone. Many of the diamonds for sale are available to many retailers, but (in my experience at least), the advice quality and level of service vary a lot between one retailer and another. Apologies if this is too generic to be of help - do tell us more about what you want assistance with!
  7. davidelevi

    The making of a red gold ring

    Hi Henk, welcome to DiamondReview! Fantastic video, and very nice ring.
  8. davidelevi

    Engagement Ring Selection Help

    How to spoil a perfectly good user name
  9. davidelevi

    Question Regarding Diamond Scintillation

    You are very welcome. It's a reasonably competitive price; the medium fluorescence brings prices down by a bit compared to the stones advertised here (and remember to add 20% VAT as well as the exchange rate) https://www.diamondreview.com/diamonds?sortOrder=price&sortDesc=0&fShape=Cush&fCaratLo=0.40&fCaratHi=0.45&fColorLo=F&fColorHi=F&fClarityLo=VVS1&fClarityHi=VVS2&fCutLo=&fCutHi=poor&fDepthLo=0.0&fDepthHi=100.0&fTableLo=0.0&fTableHi=100.0&fSymLo=&fSymHi=poor&fPolLo=&fPolHi=poor&fCulLo=&fCulHi=vlarge&fFlrLo=none&fFlrHi=med&fPriceLo=0&fPriceHi=1000000000&adv=1
  10. davidelevi

    Question Regarding Diamond Scintillation

    By and large that's all you need. The report is there to make sure that you have a reference to fair value, and everything checks out (assuming that the £1,250 you were quoted are inclusive of UK VAT).
  11. davidelevi

    Help with Princess Cut ASET

    Yes - which corroborates the ASET image (a lot of red, but not "enough" blue or white/black for my taste)
  12. davidelevi

    Help with Princess Cut ASET

    The ASET for all three appear nice - however there are three problems: 1. It's quite difficult to compare these images across different photographers, and here there seem to be certainly two and possibly three takers. 2. It's instead relatively easy to get the ASET to "lie" a bit by moving the stone in or out a few tenths of a mm, so don't take any of these images at face value, but demand and inspect corroborating evidence. FWIW, it seems that the three ASETs here have been well taken - they do correspond pretty well to what one sees in the videos. 3. Personal preferences play a significant role in deciding what's a good ASET (and a good stone). The simplistic reading that says "the more red, the better" is often wrong: I - for example - like contrast and strong patterning, rather than a lot of brightness, but there is nothing to say that my view holds sway. With all this in mind, the one I like best is the 0.81, precisely because of the contrast. The 0.80 F/VS1 is the brightest of the lot straight on, but tends to exhibit a "on-off" personality that I don't like (technically, it has less scintillation), and the E/VS2 is somewhere in between, however it's also slightly smaller face up. All three are "better than average" in terms of cut. Which one do you like, and perhaps more importantly, which of the three is the recipient going to like most?
  13. davidelevi

    Advise on this diamond - emerald cut

    I know you don't care, but your wallet does. None of my business, but why?
  14. davidelevi

    Want To Sell Antique Ring

    It is beautiful. The ad is now almost 9 years old...
  15. davidelevi

    Advise on this diamond - emerald cut

    Of the three discussed here, it's the one that I like most in the video/photos/reflector images. Whether it's worth the extra money (and bear in mind that probably just by setting the stone your "FL" grade is gone...) is completely your decision.
  16. davidelevi

    Advise on this diamond - emerald cut

    Don't worry - you are not taking up time that is not given willingly. This one looks better in the video/photo than the first one - the caveats that Neil very clearly (and I less clearly) pointed out apply, but as far as these things are indicative of real life appearance this one is quite nice...
  17. davidelevi

    Black diamond with external inclusion

    Not to put too fine a point on it, it's a chip. Possibly because there was a large feather (again not to put too fine a point on it, a crack), possibly because the setting process caused or enlarged the feather. It affects durability; fancy blacks are not graded for clarity, but a stone with a feather of that size/location/type won't be easy to resell. On the other hand, unless this is a natural fancy black, the stone isn't worth a lot - if it bothers you, send it back to the vendor and get it changed; express mail is safe and cheap, even between Asia and the US. If it is a natural fancy black (expensive stone), I would definitely take the vendor's offer and get it replaced - ask for their assistance in shipping things back (postal insurance on jewellery is a nightmare for consumers).
  18. davidelevi

    Advise on this diamond - emerald cut

    Pavilion and crown angles are of limited help for non-symmetrical (round or square) cuts because of necessity they vary a lot across the stone. ASET and more in general reflector images I find more useful - but the only valid test ultimately is seeing the diamond, especially in comparison with others. FWIW, looking at the photo and video I would not recommend this diamond: it has a poor distribution of contrast; what you want ideally is alternating "rectangles" of light and dark that change as the diamond moves, not a very dark centre that suddenly becomes all white and then goes all dark again. However, angles of lighting and observation are key to getting (or not getting) either effect, so it may all be "in the photo". Also - and this is more objective - the crown looks very shallow, and that is usually a sign that the diamond won't have much fire, which is another reason for dropping it. Hope this helps.
  19. davidelevi

    Has Anyone Has Any Experience With Brilliance.com Of Florida?

    Rather nice of them to give you massages though. Sorry; couldn't resist. If I were you, since things are clearly at breakdown point, I would involve the credit card company, assuming you paid with one of those. This is one of those situations where they are your strongest allies.
  20. davidelevi

    Review these two diamonds please

    "True Hearts" is purely a marketing classification. This said, both diamonds are cut extremely well, in as far as it can be seen from the videos and reports. Personally, I prefer the cushion, because I like the shape more than a princess, and it's larger. The less tinted colour of the princess at 0.6x/0.7x is going to be unnoticeable once set, and they are both totally eye-clean.
  21. davidelevi

    Ebay engagement ring purchase opinions

    Congratulations! May you both enjoy the ring for a long time to come.
  22. davidelevi

    Ebay engagement ring purchase opinions

    The best way of getting a reliable estimate of "likely value" is to get an expert appraiser working for you to see it... my advice is worth more or less how much you pay for it, even though it is given in good faith. Ignore - totally - the "value" conclusion on the EGL piece of plastic; all it will do is to cause you to spend more money in insurance premiums. The basic design of the setting is a very common style since at least the 1930s. Judging from the plated 14 kt gold and some fairly crude detailing (sorry), it's unlikely to be that old - but it could be 2 months, 2 years or 20 years old. Or more.
  23. davidelevi

    Ebay engagement ring purchase opinions

    Grading something via photos is not just difficult. It's impossible. The grading report's unreliability and lack of information (is the stone fluorescent?) doesn't help. In turn, this means it's impossible to say much about the price. A setting like that one will probably cost you $800 or so, including setting work. Let's take it out, and you are left with $1,200 for the centre stone. You can get a GIA-graded 0.70 E/VS1 for $1,500 (or twice that price... depending on cut, fluorescence and finish), so it's definitely not a super-bargain. Is it a rip-off? Well, that depends on what you have. Playing the "EGL usually grades 1-2 grades loose" game gets you to a G-H/VS2, which means you could have probably bought "something" of the same size, colour and clarity new for the same price. Or you could have spent $500 more and guaranteed you got a really nicely cut stone (this one doesn't seem bad, but again it's difficult to say from still photos - nice ones, BTW, well done!). Drawing the "EGL can be a total disaster, 6 grades off in colour and 3 in clarity" (and it can be) card leaves you in a bad place from an 'egg-on-your-face' point of view, but "only" $300 or so out-of-pocket compared to buying a new ring. Fortunately smaller stones aren't that sensitive to colour and clarity (both in terms of appearance and price). So: if you like it, you probably didn't win the lottery, but you didn't lose badly either. If you don't like it, return it without fearing that it's a "never to be seen again opportunity".
  24. davidelevi

    Review of 1.60ct GIA/SI2/E round cut

    In short - no. The "cleanness" of the plot tells you very little as to the severity and visibility of the inclusions. It's provided to help you identify the characteristics and thus the stone, not to say whether there is a lot or a little. The SI2/I1 grade is supposed to provide indications about the integrity, not the amount of ink on the plot. 😉 I could show you I1 plots that look "cleaner" than the one we are talking about, and SI2 plots that look totally clean - yet are awful in reality, and vice versa ("Much ado about nothing"). But there are also awful I1 (and SI2) with plots that are practically "all red".
  25. davidelevi

    Review of 1.60ct GIA/SI2/E round cut

    The primary concern is in terms of the visibility of the feathers - which unfortunately the report tells us nothing about. In-person observation - which you can do - is the only reliable test in this respect. In terms of durability, the fact that GIA decided to grade it SI2 rather than I1 means that they don't think the feathers pose significant risks to integrity and durability; again the report doesn't tell us very much (and I am not a setter!), but GIA makes generally good calls from this point of view. Couple of points to keep into account as you finalise your decision: 1. Things tend to become more visible over time - not because they change, but because our eye/brain system becomes more attuned to them. If you (your to-be-fiancée) tend to be the obsessive types, think carefully whether you want to go for an SI2. 2. A dirty stone (and it will get dirty) tends to show inclusions more easily - smear the pavilion with a little skin grease off your forehead or nose (or use hand cream if you are squeamish...) and see if things become "too apparent" that way. 3. Check the stone - clean and dirty - in different lighting environments: a jeweller's spotlights are great for making a stone look good, but they are not where you (it)'ll be for 99.99% of the time. Try some flat overhead /diffused lighting, fluorescent if possible, try natural light - both direct and indirect - and some very dim lighting (say under a desk). Try looking at things through the side as well, especially if your intended setting design is very "open" in that way. 4. Bear in mind that on the other hand setting the stone will make the inclusions more difficult to see. How much so depends on where the inclusions are, the shape/design of the setting and how skilled the setter is, so it's difficult to reassure you precisely in this respect, but it is generally true.