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About davidelevi

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    Ideal Diamond

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  1. davidelevi

    Can a diamond be dented?

    Hi Pmasley, welcome to Diamond Review, and congratulations on your engagement! Diamonds generally don't dent - they are way too hard and rigid. They can crack and chip, though, and it is possible that they do so when they are being set (or prongs are tightened). Unfortunately, we'd need to see the diamond to confirm whether your impression that the diamond is dented is just the prong metal reflecting (and possibly in a slightly different way from what it did before), or the diamond is actually damaged.
  2. davidelevi

    Reset ring- might have been given different diamond

    @Ed Auguero - would you mind clarifying what your relationship with Diamond Hedge is, and who/what they are exactly? Why should anybody listen to an unidentified organisation? Advertising, especially covert advertising, is not allowed on this forum; on the other hand, if you are a bona fide member of the trade, you are welcome to use a footer with your company's name on every post. Lack of a response to this within 24 hours will prompt reporting of your post to admin.
  3. davidelevi

    A match? Or chipped?

    Hi Erik, welcome to Diamond Review! Well... I wish I could give a definite answer to at least one of your questions. It really depends on how close you need them to be. Where is the other diamond? If you are thinking of a 'moi et toi' ring or something like that, it probably isn't. If you are thinking of a pair of ear studs (I know you aren't - just as an example), probably yes: there is always going to be a head in between. The difference in symmetry is probably the least concern; proportions (and looks) may be quite different between GIA EX and GIA EX; when you expand the field to VG, without the reports (and ideally seeing the diamonds!) it's anybody's guess as to how well they will match. BTW - it's possible that the only reason why this got a 'VG' symmetry grade is because of the chip; is the chip in the report, or did it happen after grading? On the other hand, light brown Q-R stones aren't super common (or rather - they are relatively common, but not many get graded by GIA, as they get sold without a lab report or at best with a third-tier lab report), and if at least the diameters and table % are similar you may be able to get away with a lot more than may seem possible if they match reasonably well in colour. Which in turn opens another can of worms, as 'Q-R, light brown' covers a much greater range of shades than (say) G or H. Ah, the chip, the chip. Yes, it's possible in theory to hide that under a prong. However, depending on why the chip happened (e.g. too thin a girdle?), it may make things worse. In addition, whether the 'hiding' is successful depends in part on the style of the setting; a thin, claw-like prong may not hide enough. And any prong - unless you go for a bezel-style setting - is going to be placed at a slightly asymmetrical angle vs. the stone faceting. Would I buy it? At a very discounted price, and knowing a skilled setter, maybe I would. But not otherwise.
  4. davidelevi

    Wedding bands recommendation

    There is a fair amount of work in building and setting - unless you make the effort to design a CAD model (which is only worth doing if you have a significant volume), so a good jeweller in a relatively cheap country can be very competitive on these things.
  5. davidelevi

    Wedding bands recommendation

    I honestly think you are overthinking this. Either get BGD to supply something that they know fits - because they have done hundreds of those already, or get a local goldsmith to do one that fits. Everything else is pointless speculation.
  6. davidelevi

    Wedding bands recommendation

    Yes This not only uses less metal; it usually makes the mounting a closer fit for the stone (relatively unimportant for melée which are cut to uniform sizes). I did miss your edit. Couple of considerations: 1. The larger the stones in the band, the deeper they are, the taller the band. 2. At some point, you will get into the 'competition' with the centre stone. A 10 pointer is going to be around 3 mm, which is about half of the diameter of the 0.903. This means that 4 x 0.10 have as much surface area as the 0.90, and any colour and cut quality differences will become more easily visible. Maybe. It depends on a lot of stuff... the ring is a 3-D object, and things need to fit in all 3-D. A goldsmith really needs to see the ring in reality (or have the full 3D specs from a CAD file).
  7. davidelevi

    Wedding bands recommendation

    It could be. It all depends on how the initial casting of the base is made - the more traditional fabrication used by Tiffany privileges 'less metal' and uses 'more labour' vs. the casting approach used by the others, but in theory both can be made very thin. Given a typical 5 pointer-diameter of 2.3 mm, 1.8 is pretty close to the depth of the stone (say 60-65%, averaging out around 1.45 mm). That doesn't leave much space between the bottom of the metalwork and the culet... I'm measuring the distance on the Tiffany photo to be about 0.6 mm, considering those are larger stones (~8 points, with a diameter of ~2.7 mm and a depth of ~1.7 mm), so the difference in height vs 'the stone' is not huge - about the diameter of 3 human hairs side-by-side.
  8. davidelevi

    Wedding bands recommendation

    I would say they are 'in the middle' with their own brand/unbranded pieces. For the ultimate comfort fit, the best choice is what you find comfortable. Your hand is not 'the average hand' and what I or 10,000 other people find most comfortable, you may find less comfortable. 😁 Well... given what I just wrote above, then go with a wider band - the only thing I would recommend is not to choose 'design' in preference to 'comfort': you'll be wearing the ring 24/7 for a long time.
  9. davidelevi

    Wedding bands recommendation

    For metalwork - "the usual suspects": Tiffany, Cartier and their likes (though I don't think the rest have a big online presence), and various 'craftsman' outlets. There is a broad mid-range including much of what is for sale through 'premium cut' vendors, and then there's the relatively cheap mass-market, including unbranded goods from Blue Nile, B2C, JA and others. Just the way in which the 4.5 mm seemed to suit your hand's proportions - bigger would look (in my personal opinion) 'forced' and a bit gaudy. Nothing objective - purely personal taste/observation, and there may well be "cultural norms" that we don't share/I'm not aware of. The only issues with a sharp bevel are: 1) if it is really sharp, it may be uncomfortable (the sharp edge - however angled - still sits between your fingers), and 2) knocks, dings and dents are more noticeable on a sharp, straight edge, particularly if it is mirror finished to create a contrast with the satin. This said, I would really strongly recommend that you stop "reading about" and buy what makes you feel good, visually and to the touch. There is a lot to be said for gut (or finger) feeling - and a lot against "analysis paralysis". 😊
  10. davidelevi

    Wedding bands recommendation

    They are an excellent vendor - but they are not a 'premium' one, including the metalwork they typically offer. The problem you are going to have is that rhodium plated white gold is going to look quite different from platinum, particularly as platinum 'ages' and patinates, while every time you re-plate the gold it is going to look 'as new'. If you don't mind having the two rings looking quite different, and having to re-plate the gold every now and then, then it's a pretty good place to save some money.
  11. davidelevi

    Wedding bands recommendation

    So... it seems to me that there is no point in considering WF - if you spend more, you may as well go with BGD. Whether the $100 for 5 vs 3 pt are worth it, is a good question... I like the roundedness that comes with smaller stones, but nothing wrong with liking slightly larger ones too. Where I think I would spend the money is in getting BGD rather than B2C.
  12. davidelevi

    Wedding bands recommendation

    Maybe. Or maybe you'd need 2 mm. Or no spacer. The reason why I'm mentioning the 1 mm spacer is because (I assume - from what you said above) BGD has seen and tested their designs with that, and found it to work best. If you use a different design (and we are talking millimetres or fractions thereof, here, so the difference may not be all that visible without measuring, never mind in a CAD rendering), you may need a different sort of adjustment. For a while, we made curved bands to 'nestle' against the centre stone; some people liked that (and it definitely didn't spin!), but it was more expensive than going straight. There are two shared beads - which is significantly better than one, but no "prong" (this is a bead raised from the base shank material - or at least it seems such - again, with a CAD rendering it is difficult to understand what they actually intend to do). The two that I would consider 'proper' prong settings are the Tiffany ring and - possibly - the first B2C rendering you posted (and the others you posted in your first post, except the B2C ones, all seem to have prongs). I must say, having looked at all of them again, you can see something of what you pay for with Tiffany... See above... I don't mean to be difficult, but you really do need to get the two rings next to each other, to decide what to adjust and how. Which is why - even though it's a bit more expensive - if risk-minimising, I would go with the BGD design: at least they have seen/designed both shanks, and can tell you what works.
  13. davidelevi

    Advice on natural heart diamond for pendant

    Any of those will be OK for use in a pendant. The 'problem' in commenting or expressing a preference is that you are all over the place in terms of colour, clarity and proportions/cut (in as much as they can be determined from the info available - that is, not very well).
  14. davidelevi

    Wedding bands recommendation

    The same way that it affects cut for any other colour - well cut diamonds appear whiter, so I don't particularly buy that argument to say "they'll match the colour better". I do agree that if you've got a lot of sparkling stuff the colour tends to go by the wayside, though. 😁 There is that... but a properly sized ring shouldn't spin. Because it provides a 'straight' surface rather than letting the top of the band move (very little, but enough to scratch it). I wouldn't call this a "prong" setting. There seems to be a bead between every two diamonds, and something like a bezel holding the stone "on the side". This is from the "drab8405" type. I can't get the side-view to magnify, so I can't figure out if there is a bezel; if there isn't one, a single shared bead is IMHO a recipe for poor durability. Thought #1: this is why I really don't like CAD renderings. I have no idea whether the thing will look like that in reality, with real stones, or not. Thought #2: this is also why you really need to see both rings... and how they sit next to each other. It happens, but it's pretty rare. It usually happens if somebody's weight varies significantly, and/or they have some condition affecting the joints, like arthritis. "Normally", washing in cold water to reduce swelling and a bit of liquid soap do the trick!
  15. davidelevi

    Wedding bands recommendation

    You are not going to "outshine" a 0.90 with 3 or 5 pointers in a band... but if they are very white (say F/G) it may create a bit of contrast with a J centre. I would really not worry about clarity, but I think that trying to get well cut melée is going to be your best bet to 'match' looks. From that point of view, going with BGD is probably a reasonable bet - although they won't cut melée or guarantee to match colour, they will have suppliers that they trust to provide good quality cut to match their own larger stones. The other option is to find someone (possibly local to you in the Philippines) who is willing to source match-colour melée and make it to fit both in terms of colour and mechanically with the other ring. Without seeing the other ring "for real", I would trust BGD's word for that - just as I would trust them on the proportions; the tapering of the shank is probably another reason for 'wanting' a spacer. Whatever she likes - personally, I'd rather go with the smaller stones as they make it easier to resize. Similarly with the various models - buy what she likes; the only one I'd advise against is the cheaper B2C model, as it doesn't seem to fit the 'prong set' requirement. Personally I'd rather have 1/2 than 3/4 (same reason - resizing). Nothing wrong with them. I don't even wear a plain band... so I'm definitely the wrong person to ask. Personally I wouldn't go thicker than the 4.5 you have on in the photo - but again it's what you like, not what other people like. Unfortunately, the joint is often the thicker part of the finger - no way around it. You need to choose between discomfort at putting on/taking off the ring, and the discomfort of a loose ring. One option is a sizing band or sizing balls inside the ring, - my wife swears by them, but again not everybody likes the feeling.