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denverappraiser

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  1. UV can affect visibility in any lighting environment that contains UV. You're correct, that's unusual and direct sunlight is, by far, the most common one.
  2. The hazy look people worry about is rare but no, it's not incompatible with IF. The GIA report doesn't mention it in any case but the test is simple enough. Look at it in the sunlight. If it fails, send it back. By the way, don't aim just for direct overhead sunlight. Look at it in the shade too. Your eyes work a little different in very bright light and it's easy to mistake the effect. If you're in doubt, consider booking an appointment with an independent appraiser while you're still in the return period. They'll know what to look for and should be able to explain the issues to you. Book your appointment now, some are kind of busy and there aren't that many of us out there (an IA is not the same as a jewelry store). I think JA gives 60 days but I'm not certain of that. They're a very cooperative company. At the end of the day, if it bugs you, send it back. It doesn't even matter why. There are plenty of stones out there without fluoro if you prefer. Here's 524 stones that meet those specs. There must be more that led you this one. Again, I'm not trying to talk you out of this one, it look like it's probably lovely but, as you point out, there's a premium attached to it. IF is overkill in terms of what it looks like, a VS2 will look the same to the unaided eye, and G is underkill. Most people can see the difference between an D and a G if they look carefully. It's an unusual choice. https://www.diamondreview.com/diamonds
  3. I agree with Davide above but I'll go down another detour. You paid a premium for IF. Possibly a fairly healthy premium. That was offset by a discount for the fluorescence. Personally I like fluoro, I think it's cool, but it drives down the price. I would push for a discount as much as the next guy just because I could, but I might choose a fluorescent stone even if it didn't come at a lower price. You didn't pay a premium, you got a discount. What you paid a premium for is IF, an attribute that has no affect on sparkle, clean, clear, hazy, or milky. Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to talk you off the IF cliff but if price is your hot button, why did you end with this particular stone?
  4. Try taking it to someone like a jewelry store or a pawnshop. They're usually prepared to test it for free and while you wait.
  5. "Fancy deep grayish bluish green." This is the way GIA describes diamonds but it's not the way normal humans speak. They would give an exact weight, not an approximation. Do you already have a lab report on this, from GIA or anyone else?
  6. Appraisals are typically $100 - $200 depending on who you use. It probably will be worth doing although it depends a bit on your situation and your objectives. Where are you and I'll try to get you a referral to someone nearby? As Davide points out, 33 carats is quite large. Are you sure about this? Where did you get this data, especially the color description and the reference to treatment?
  7. You don't have much to go on here. By 'worth', do you mean how much you can reasonably expect to get for it from a dealer? I'm going to assume so, but it makes a big difference. You've been given just enough advice to be useless. It's from an anonymous source. If they're anything like VS1/G, yes it's worth pulling them out. By the way, have a pro do it, not you. It's fairly easy to damage things. Grading details make a big different. VS1/G and I1/J are remarkably similar from a 'brief look'. The difference between a 0.70 and a 0.98 is double and a VS1/G to a I1/J is nearly triple. Guessing is not the way to do this. Get it appraised by a real appraiser, who is working for YOU, not someone who is trying to buy it. A bid is not the same thing as an appraisal. There may be other expenses too. If it's truly VS1/G/0.90+ each, it may benefit you to send them in to GIA and pay the fee. The question is worth thousands of dollars.
  8. Remove the reviews (including this one), get your money, then write a review about THAT. Why have you waited 4 years?
  9. I admit to being confused. You asked about 0.50 carat total weight studs, something that pretty much any jeweler in the country sells. $600 is plenty. 0.75cts is a totally different thing. The picture is of a totally different thing from that. The link is for white gold screw backs. That's yet another totally different thing (that's over budget, by the way). Can you zero it in a bit on what you're looking for?
  10. Yes, it is possible. 'Poor' is probably a stretch. Not optimum. ASET images are a bit of a pain to take well and you'll find that the dealers aiming for the bottom of the price point tend to cut it out of their marketing. Given that you're aiming for D/IF, presumably becasue it's documented as the 'best', I'm a bit surprised you're going that route. Curious that the self described diamond teacher chose those particular images as their standards for what is optimum. I have minor problems with all 3 of the reflectors.
  11. Did the seller claim that it has hearts&arrows? Is that one of your requirements (hearts anyway)?
  12. Personally, I sort of like fluorescence but it's not very popular. That's not the same as better or worse. All things are NEVER equal. Have you seen either or both stones? Have you even seen the grading reports? I would expect the D/medium to be a smidge cheaper, but that's not a synonym for better either. Size matters. The effect of fluorescence on price with high color stones is greater with bigger stones.
  13. I'm glad you're happy. Congratulations. What the heck is an AGA certified appraisal? TLAs (three letter acronyms) are easy to come by and I may have no clue who you're talking about but usually in this business, AGA is the Accredited Gemologists Association. If that's who we're talking about, they don't certify either appraisers or appraisals. It's a membership organization for gemologists (a good one, by the way). Read the fine print on that 'appraisal'. There are some red flags here, starting with where you got it. Did the seller supply this report or is it someone you hired? Is this from the same vendor mentioned in the headline of this thread?
  14. Spotting fracture filling takes a little bit of practice but the usual way is to light the stone from the side (not the top) and move it around under your loupe. There's a rainbow affect from the filling that can be pretty distinctive. Look specifically at surface reaching feathers and you're looking just below the surface. Sometimes it's pretty easy, sometimes it's tricky. One trick is to put yourself in the shoes of the seller. The reason to CE is to improve the visible grade by making certain surface reaching inclusions less prominent. On the right stones it works pretty well. Not this one. What makes you I1 (or maybe I2) is the string of black stretching from the girdle to the middle of the table. CE won't help that. That means they were I1 to start with and they're still going to be I1 when they're done, plus the CE warning label. The stone ends up less valuable, not more, and they have to pay to do it. That doesn't mean the didn't do it, but was a bad idea if they did. I think it's unlikely.
  15. In most cases, with normal vision, and under normal lighting conditions, fracture filling is usually not visible. A lot of if's there that are not answered by a photograph or in the above report. Mostly with facture filling people worry about whether it's there at all. If you're ok to skate past that, I wouldn't worry about the minutia. I don't recognize that lab, which doesn't mean much, but the burden is on THEM to convince you their opinion has merit. They seem to have failed at this. That means don't just discount their opinion, ignore it completely. You're starting from scratch. Show it to someone who knows what they're doing and ask these questions.
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