denverappraiser

A-List Appraiser
  • Content Count

    7198
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by denverappraiser


  1. GIA doesn’t have a cut grade for pears and they don’t use the word ‘ideal’ at all, even for rounds. The problem with cut grading pears is that it’s too complicated. Even with rounds, which only have a dozen or so variables, it’s hotly argued what is the ‘best’ set of parameters. Pears have far more, and the set of stones is far smaller.  AGS has tried. That’s a pretty good lab and they put some real effort into cut grading fancies. They’ve been at it for decades and they STILL haven’t tackled pears.  To call it harder than it looks is an understatement. The approach you’re showing above does raise an interesting question. If they’re not using GIA grading standards, what are they using (and why?)

    • Like 2

  2. I'll add to the above that the fact that you quickly sold multiple items for a profit in multiple different transactions is a really good sign. The inability to do that is exactly the problem for 90% of the people who get into the picking business. Buying is easy. Selling is hard.  Selling quickly is doubly so. 

     


  3. Great answers from Davide above. Not much to add but a little bit, mostly on things you didn't ask. 

    Believe it or not, there’s a whole industry in this. They’re called Pickers. They go from pawn shop to pawn shop, garage sale to garage sale, and look at the things that are freshly out of hold (around here a pawnshop needs to hold everything for 30 days for the benefit of the police) and buy the ones that are mispriced. Pawnbrokers are supposed to be experts in everything and, of course, they aren’t.  They make mistakes, just like everyone else. There are pickers waiting looking for tools, guns, electronics, and just about everything else where they know a little bit more than the next guy. I know people who have been doing this full time for years. It’s not as easy as it sounds and it involves something of a magic power. You need to be able to spot the ‘good stuff’ in 5 seconds or less, looking through two layers of dirty glass, all while not letting on which item(s) you are REALLY interested in.  Poker skills can be very helpful here. I mention this just to point out that you have competition and some of them are really quite skilled. Good things go quickly so you have to show up often and be prepared to pay cash in the thousands. Physical auctions can be the same gig. The stores learn to recognize you and they start using YOU as a test.  If you’re willing to buy it, that means it’s underpriced.  If you look at it more than twice or for more than a few seconds, it’s underpriced. It's a dance. 

    #2 is the sales, which you curiously didn’t really discuss all that much.  What you’re describing is a professional jeweler or what's known in the trade as a 'vest pocket' jeweler. There’s certainly nothing wrong with that, but the hard part is in the selling, not the buying. Your premise seems to be the opposite. The real skill is in the care and feeding of your buyers, not so much your sellers. Relying on them for pricing data like they do in those stupid TV shows is problematic, to say the least. As mentioned above, you are in a fiercely competitive field here and everyone in it has a vested interest in cutting you out. 

    • Like 1

  4. The biggest difference here, by far, is one of shape. Emerald cuts are neither better nor worse than rounds, that's a matter of taste, but they're most definitely different.  I largely agree with Davide above (I usually do) but before you get into the cut evaluation questions on an EC, it's important to decide if that's even what you want.  The right price on the wrong thing is no bargain. 


  5. As Davide points out, we have no clue what they mean by ‘ideal’. What you’ve got is two XXXs. That’s ALL you know about the cutting. ‘Sparkle’ comes from cutting, not from clarity. That makes your first question impossible to answer. There’s not enough information given.

    Reselling. That’s largely a fashion question. What will be popular in the future?  How good are YOU at selling things? These are not gemological properties. JA doesn’t buy back, and no one else will apply a premium for their branding. VS’s on the secondary market CURRENTLY seems to get more interest because they’re cheaper, but your guess is as good as mine how things will work in the future and cheaper probably isn't the attribute you're looking for when you ask about resale. If reselling is your plan, avoid diamonds entirely. Nearly everyone takes a haircut on this path. Don't buy either one. Diamonds are not a sound financial instrument unless you are a dealer (and maybe even if you are). Like most purchases, buy diamonds because they're cool and you love them, not because you expect to see your money again. 


  6. GIA won't release that information without a warrant and it probably won't help much anyway. A typical diamond changes hands several times before it gets to the final customer and none of these transactions are reported to GIA.  

    Start by making sure it's a diamond. Most pawnshops will do this for free as well as tell you if there's an inscription on the girdle.  If it's a diamond, file a report with the local police where it was found and they'll tell you how to proceed. If it's not a diamond, I wouldn't worry about it too much.  


  7. Ask Brian or his peeps?  They do have a pony in this race so you need to take their advice with a grain of salt, but they're a pretty straightforward company.  They might just give you good advice.  Be fast, by the way, these things don't tend to stick around long. 

     


  8. There's a large company called "American International Gemologists" that produces sales documents for jewelers, mostly online, with the masthead AIG. They make them by the thousands. Your headline and URL is for "Antwerp International Gemological Laboratories". These are not the same. 

     The heart of your question is simple enough. A seller produces a report from AIG that says something. Should you believe it?

    Maybe. Maybe not. The merits, or lack thereof, of AIG is on them, not the seller and not us. The fact that the seller chose them tells you that it's their guys, not yours. The fact that it includes at least some information that you know to be false is a bad sign. The fact that you are having a hard time researching them is a bad sign. 

    I took the opportunity to look up a more-or-less random offering on that site.  Like the ones you're looking at, it's being sold by an Israeli dealer. Several things came up in a brief look. They supply a clarity grade of 'transparent' on the ruby. That's not even one of their choices on the clarity scale they include right next to it.  They missed some critical information, notably treatments or lack thereof on the ruby. That's a huge deal in the ruby business and it's the #1 reason people would want to see a lab inspection report. They don't even say if it's natural or synthetic. They give it a cut grade, which has no scale at all. The jewelry has an 'excellent ideal finish'. I can't even take a guess what that means and, again, no scale or context is given.  Does that make them wrong or unreliable? Absolutely not, but I'm not sure what you would rely on them for. 

    Then there are those reviews.  138 of them. I didn't read them all but it seems to be full of comments on how happy people are with the shipping speed. That's a fine thing, but it has nothing to do with the reliability of the paperwork provided. I didn't spot a single one that talks about the subject at hand here.  Maybe I just missed it. 

    https://www.catawiki.nl/l/39719003-lilo-diamonds-aig-certificate-14-karaat-geel-goud-ring-1-26-ct-robijn-diamant-0-42-d-f-vvs

    • Like 1

  9. I'm much more concerned about the setting. That ring is just asking for trouble as a daily wear piece. Did you include that as an example of what you're making?  Heavily included stones are less durable, and points are fragile by their nature. Hanging freely over the edge of the piece like this is a dangerous plan. The bottom point, the one resting on the glass, is at risk just to take that picture.  The top point is already broken.  (the piece of glass is even more at risk here although people are generally less concerned about that)


  10. For a correctly graded and undamaged 3.0+/GIA/VS2/I/VG+/VG+/VG+, the median price is about double your budget at the discounty type dealers. Most B&M stores will be more than that.  I, of course, understand the desire to push for a bargain but pushing for half of market value is asking for troubles that don't show up in the advertising. 

    https://www.diamondreview.com/diamonds?sortOrder=price&sortDesc=0&fShape=Rnd&fCaratLo=3.00&fCaratHi=3.10&fColorLo=I&fColorHi=I&fClarityLo=VS2&fClarityHi=VS2&fCutLo=exc&fCutHi=vgood&fDepthLo=50.0&fDepthHi=80.0&fTableLo=40.0&fTableHi=80.0&fSymLo=vgood&fSymHi=poor&fPolLo=vgood&fPolHi=poor&fCulLo=&fCulHi=vlarge&fFlrLo=&fFlrHi=vstrong&fPriceLo=0&fPriceHi=1000000&fLabGIA=1&adv=1

     


  11. At least around here (Colorado), most local jewelers actually are open although they have weird and changing restrictions on things like plastic shields, gloves and they like.  It's inconvenient but not really a deal killer.  They ARE prepared to show what they're selling.  The rules are different in different states and even different counties but don't just assume that COVID has them closed.  


  12. I've never heard of them, but a casual look isn't good.  Their 'cut quality score' talks about the importance of the 'arrows'. That's a whole different discussion but they're dinging you for lack of them.  This information is NOT available from your GIA report, and the GIA is their only input. That and the fact that they're trying to steer you towards 'similar' diamonds tells me it's nonsense at best and a scam at worst.  


  13. NO properly graded GIA F/VS1/xxx will appear dull and lifeless. It's conceivable that some other stone will suit your taste better but the specs of what you have are extremely good.  Quit worrying and wait for it to arrive. 


  14. Few people would describe a correctly graded G as yellow, so the real issue is the relative grading between two stones that you haven't seen and that lie on the opposing sides of the F/G boundary.  GIA color grading varies too.  There are 'high G's and 'low F's'.  You aren't going to be able to make this call based on the paper.  You either need to see them or you need to have someone's who's grading skills you trust look at them (or both). 

    • Like 1

  15. No BGM means no Brown Green or Milky.  None of this is very precise and no serious lab uses it. It came into trade lingo a few years ago when the politics of Zimbabwe became an issue.  (Most Green stones come from a particular region of Zim).  Honestly, I don't think I've ever heard a consumer use it. May I ask where you heard it?  


  16. Most appraisers I think would call that an Old European cut. I even think GIA would, but they're pretty particular. 

    Your measurements would indicate about a 1.25ct. but using 2 measurements with 1 significant digit each leaves a lot of room for error.  Even a 0.1mm difference is important. 


  17. I’m not really sure what your question or concern is but I’ll try and give a few generic sorts of answers:

    ‘Valued at’ is irrelevant.  It’s sort of like ‘manufacturers suggested retail price’.  Value does not stand on it’s own.  There is an element of what it’s worth to whom, when, and under what circumstances. Often these value declarations don’t include ANY of that. Details matter.  Start with the signature.

    Auction catalog.  This is an advertisement. Don’t put too much stake in it.  They will estimate things low if they want to bring in bidders, they’ll go high if they want to make other things in the catalog look comparatively reasonable.  It really have very little to do with anything.  Ignore it.

    Insurance. For insurance purposes, the description and photographs are more important than the value conclusion.  In most cases, the insurance company is agreeing to replace with like-kind and quality, or words to that effect, not to pay out a particular amount.  I’ve never heard of EDR, which means nothing at all, but you said nothing about the details of their report to go on.  Details are EVERYTHING, and I see appraisals every day that are laughable.  Start with the signature.  Then read the text and look at the pictures.  Follow that up with a scrutiny of their website and a Googling of the signer’s name.  Are you still inclined to believe them? 

    Nothing in your description or that photo suggests 500GBP is particularly unreasonable but if you're concerned, hire an appraiser who is working for YOU, not them.