A-List Appraiser
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About denverappraiser

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    Ideal Diamond

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    Denver Colorado, USA

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  1. Which of these round ~1 carrot stones would you choose?

    The first one is under 1.00ct., which is why it's cheaper, and there's no straight answer as to whether that tradeoff is going to be good for you or not. It depends on your requirements. I would also be wary of comparing ASETs from different vendors because they use different photo setups. R103-046Z75609, for example, shows what look like some symmetry issues, but I sort of suspect they're actually just problems with the photography. Taking these pictures well is a lot more difficult than it looks. If you're trying to match two stones I generally recommend choosing your vendor first, then pick two from what they have rather than trying to match across the Internet.
  2. #2 doesn't have an ASET and I don't think any of them have an idealscope. The 'arrows' side of an H&A scope is not the same thing. The ASET's you have don't look like photographs to me, they look computer generated. That's a mixed bag but the upside is that it makes them consistent. I'm not impressed with any of them. Do they otherwise look good on paper (crown angles, pavilion angles, etc.)
  3. How to sell engagement & wedding rings

    It's a slightly complicated question and it varies depending on what you have, how much effort you're willing to put into it, what sorts of skills you have, your risk tolerance, your location and even just plain luck. Here's a start.
  4. GIA Certification from London

    I think 'defense' was my word. When a seller makes a claim, especially an important one like this, the burden is on them to defend it.
  5. GIA Certification from London

    Yikes. This Vashi 'certification' is a report written by the guys who are selling it? That doesn't make them wrong, and you do want this too, but that's just a reformating of the sales receipt. It's a huge red flag that this is their primary defense of the grade on a 6 carat rock with, presumably, a 6 digit price tag. The difference between a G/SI1 and an H/SI2 in nearly a factor of 2. Even G-H is going to affect the price to the order of $40,000! This is not a tiny detail. Yes, it's a pain, and they should get on it. Immediately is a good schedule, and they should do it whether you buy it or not. They already know this, which begs the question: "Why hasn't it been done already?"
  6. GIA Certification from London

    GIA is a chore, especially from overseas. It’s easy enough, although a little expensive to get it to them and get it graded, but it’s far from easy, and far from inexpensive, to get it back. That’s going to involve a third party. Malca-Amit is a popular choice, who has offices in UK. Be careful not to run afowl of the import taxes that will be owed to her majesty if you screw up the paperwork. I second the comments above questioning why do this at all. There ARE graders in the UK. There are independent valuers in the UK that can answer your questions for far less money and less grief than dealing with international shipping. GIA offers a useful service but they're not the only useful service out there.
  7. Was my diamond purchase worth it?

    But but but, that would be against the rules.
  8. Was my diamond purchase worth it?

    Is there a question in there somewhere? Are you looking for investment advice? Recommendations of jewelers in CO (Colorado?)? Advice on a stone you’ve purchased? Advice on innovative cuts? Old traditional ones? Something else entirely?
  9. Appraisal

    There are definitely some issues here. Yes, I would recommend hiring an appraiser who is working for you, not them who can help you sort it out. Some good places to look: National Associaton of Jewelry Appraisers American Society of Appraisers International Society of Appraisers American Gem Society All of these have online lookup systems for their members and I'm willing to bet that Rochester has a few. I don't know any, which means nothing since I'm 2000 miles away.
  10. 3 Carat pear, Si1, I color, strong flouresence

    The worry about fluorescence in diamonds is a problem called ‘overblue’. Here’s how it works. Fluorescence means when you shine a UV light, which is invisible to the eye, the stone generates light that *IS* visible. Normally, that isn’t a problem. More visible light coming back it you is a good thing, not a bad one. The problem comes when the internally generated light, meaning the fluorescence stuff, is brighter than the reflected light, which is what you’re used to seeing. The sparkle, which comes from the myriad of reflections in the stones gets overshadowed. It’s not blue as much as a cloudy effect like looking at a bright light through a fogged lens. Realistically, the only environment where you’ll see it is direct, unshaded, sunlight. The problem is that the sun is a decidedly bright light source, and it takes a lot of fluro to offset it. It’s a tiny fraction of the strong blue’s that can do this, even to the point of being detectable. They do exist, but they're a lot more scarce than people think. I look at diamonds every day and I haven’t seen one in years for example. Your risk really is pretty low but the test is simple enough. Take a look at it in the sun when you get a chance. I’m curious about your transaction. You mentioned that you bought it from an online store but that you looked at it in their showroom. Why is it taking 2 weeks to deliver it?
  11. Dark Blueish-Gray diamond color?

    Pink is the word you're hoping for, but pinkish is almost good enough. Orangish is better than nothing but you probably won't get your lab fees back. Brown what you're avoiding. Not that you have a choice. If they call it a 'fancy light brown' it's going to be tough to sell. The customary reason to get the color only report is to avoid the clarity grade. An I3 clarity grade, which is possible on the pear, is doing you no favors. The fact that the color-only report is a little bit cheaper is just gravy. The standard for how much pink makes a diamond 'pinkish' is a bit like asking exactly how many drops make a drizzle into a rain, but the word they use is 'noticeable'.
  12. Dark Blueish-Gray diamond color?

    Most people will find a fancy dark grey to be difficult to sell. It’s a fashion thing, and the issue is what market you’re selling to, not so much the ‘value’ of the stone. This isn’t like cashing a check, and it has a lot to do with your own distribution channels. I suspect most stores would do better selling a thing like this mounted for example, and I doubt a GIA inspection would help much. On the other hand, if you can get the word ‘blue’ to appear anywhere on the report, it will be worth the cost of the exam. The same general concept is likely true on you pear as well. The word 'pink' is distinctly desirable and if GIA will put it on a report it's probably worth the cost. Without it, especially if you are not yourself a designer where you can sell it mounted, it may not be.
  13. Finding a Jyotish Diamond; difference in Diamonds

    ‘Eye clean’ is not part of the clarity grading standards at GIA so no, they don’t guarantee it with VS1’s or anything else. In practice, yes I think you’re safe at that grade but, as you point out, it’s not ‘perfect’. People buy IF’s for symbolic reasons and that’s the reason they trade at a premium. That's also true with color but with a slight difference. Although most people can't tell the difference between a D and a G after it's mounted, it's at least theoretically possible. As with the above, the premium for D's is mostly for symbolic reasons, not for how they look.
  14. Finding a Jyotish Diamond; difference in Diamonds

    The first one you listed is FL. The second is IF. That's why the price differential. The third one doesn't meet your specs. In the database here alone there are 745 stones that do. Your requirements aren't all that hard and the trick is making the list smaller, not longer. Yes, emerald cuts are cheaper per carat than otherwise similar rounds. I don't see any 0.72/D/IF of any shape so you need to decide where you want to flex. Would you prefer emerald cut? If you bump the budget to $3500 you can get it all in round (assuming you prefer that since that's where you started). I see 4 of those to choose from.
  15. Ideal and ASET scope

    The usual task at hand is to separate a sea of ‘excellent’ stones to find the best, or at least eliminate the worst. I’m with Davide in that I don’t find HCA especially useful for this and ASET/IS images are sort of a mixed bag. The problem is that the photographic setups aren’t standardized. You can rule out serious outliers, and you can compare within the offerings of a particular dealer where every picture was taken in the same way, but comparing between dealers can get pretty problematic. You end up with the dealer who takes the best pictures, not necessarily the one with best stone.