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How to Buy a Diamond
by Fred Cuellar
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This book comes from an industry insider who will tell you all about the business and how
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Diamond Ring Buying Guide
by Renee Newman
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The clear illustrations and enlarged pictures of actual diamonds are what add tremendous value to this book. You can
learn to recognize blemishes, inferior cuts, etc., without having to set foot in a jewelry store. Also recommended.
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Guidelines
for Selecting a Well-Proportioned Diamond
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The tables that follow were created by Diamond ReviewTM
from many different (sometimes conflicting) industry sources, and can be used as a rough
guide to approximate the "ideal cut" for a given shape. The importance of visually examining the stone cannot be
overstated -- let the numbers guide you when screening different stones, and also when
pricing a specific stone. But in the final selection of the diamond that your
partner will wear for the rest of her life, your eyes should always have the final say. |
A few notes on using the tables:
1. Only the most important cut
characteristics & dimensions for each shape are listed. Be sure to read the next
page (Tutorial - [Cut 6]) for other considerations.
2. The terminology used in this table ("table
%", etc.) is defined and explained in the previous tutorial page. If you're
unclear on anything, revisit Tutorial - [Cut 3].
3. A "bowtie" is not a measurable metric,
but rather an undesirable optical effect that can be observed in certain Marquises, Ovals,
and Pears. Here's what a bowtie looks like:
4. Don't be a perfectionist. It is acceptable
to purchase a diamond that rates "good" or even "fair/poor" on any
category, as long as you are AWARE of what you're purchasing and understand the cost and
quality tradeoffs.
Round
|
Excellent |
Very Good |
Good |
Fair / Poor |
Depth % |
58.5-62.8% |
55.0-58.5% or 62.8-64.0% |
53.0-55.0% or 64.0-67.0% |
Outside of these ranges |
Table % |
53.2-61.2% |
51.1-53.2% or 61.2-64.5% |
49.0-51.1% or 64.5-68.0% |
Outside of these ranges |
Length/Width Ratio |
1.05:1.00 |
1.10:1.00 |
1.15:1.00 |
Outside of these ranges |
Marquise
|
Excellent |
Very Good |
Good |
Fair/Poor |
Depth % |
56-72% |
52-55% or 73-75% |
48-52% or 76-78% |
Outside of these ranges |
Length / Width Ratio |
2.1:1 to 1.9:1 |
2.25:1 to 1.75:1 |
2.30:1 to 1.70:1 |
Outside of these ranges |
Bowtie |
Absent |
Absent to very faint |
Very faint to faint |
Visible |
Oval
|
Excellent |
Very Good |
Good |
Fair/Poor |
Depth % |
56-72% |
52-55% or 73-75% |
48-52% or 76-78% |
Outside of these ranges |
Length/Width Ratio |
1.55:1 to 1.45:1 |
1.65:1 to 1.35:1 |
1.70:1 to 1.30:1 |
Outside of these ranges |
Bowtie |
Absent |
Absent/v. faint |
v.faint / faint |
Visible |
Pear
|
Excellent |
Very Good |
Good |
Fair/Poor |
Depth % |
56-72% |
52-55% or 73-75% |
48-52% or 76-78% |
Outside of these ranges |
Length/Width Ratio |
1.70:1 to 1.55:1 |
1.75:1 to 1.50:1 |
1.80:1 to 1.45:1 |
Outside of these ranges |
Bowtie |
Absent |
Absent/v. faint |
v.faint / faint |
Visible |
Girdle thickness (at tip)
|
Thick |
V. Thick - Thick |
V.V. Thick or Medium |
Thin - V. Thin |
Heart
|
Excellent |
Very Good |
Good |
Fair/Poor |
Depth % |
56-72% |
52-55% or 73-75% |
48-52% or 76-78% |
Outside of these ranges |
Length/Width Ratio |
1.05:1.00 |
1.15:1.00 |
1.20:1.00 |
Outside of these ranges |
Notch on top of heart shape
|
Well defined |
Well defined |
Well defined |
Barely present |
Radiant
|
Excellent |
Very Good |
Good |
Fair/Poor |
Depth % |
60-76% |
57-60% or 77-83% |
52-57% or 84-86% |
Outside of these ranges |
Length/Width Ratio |
1.70:1 to 1.55:1 |
1.75:1 to 1.50:1 |
1.80:1 to 1.45:1 |
Outside of these ranges |
Emerald
|
Excellent |
Very Good |
Good |
Fair/Poor |
Depth % |
60-76% |
57-60% or 77-83% |
52-57% or 84-86% |
Outside of these ranges |
Length/Width Ratio |
1.70:1 to 1.55:1 |
1.75:1 to 1.50:1 |
1.80:1 to 1.45:1 |
Outside of these ranges |
Princess
|
Excellent |
Very Good |
Good |
Fair/Poor |
Depth % |
60-76% |
57-60% or 77-83% |
52-57% or 84-86% |
Outside of these ranges |
Length/Width Ratio |
1.05:1.00 |
1.10:1.00 |
1.15:1.00 |
Outside of these ranges |
The final topic relating to "cut"
is the quality of the workmanship involved in cutting a diamond. Continue with the
tutorial to find out more.
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