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Flush Setting Or Not?


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#1 dassin

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 04:27 AM

I am getting an egagement ring designed, and the design assumes the diamond will be set with flush setting. I am getting a good quality diamond (Color D, Clarity IF, Triple Excellent, Size - 0.41).

The jeweller who I'm buying the diamond from insists that the ring designer is "killing" the stone by using flush setting, because only the top of the diamond will be visible and this diamond is of the best quality and that quality is lost if it's not set to be visible entirely.

The designer says that the flush setting is the only setting that works with the ring design and it really doesn't take away from the beauty of the diamond, since the major amount of light is reflected from the top.

Any advice? Will it really "kill" the diamond if it's mounted with a flush setting?

#2 denverappraiser

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 05:48 AM

Flush setting tends to make the stone look a bit smaller, it doesn't show off the premium cutting all that well and it can be a pain to keep clean but, that said, I'm with the designer. Make it the way you like and the way that works with your design.
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#3 jan

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 07:49 AM

Can you show us a photo of the mounting that you are thinking?
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#4 momof3

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 08:28 AM

Is a flush setting the same as setting a stone low? A friend of mine has a 2.5 carat and said she requested it to be set low and told me I should request that in larger stones to protect it especially if using a 4 prong. Is she correct? How does it make a stone look smaller in a flush setting? The diameter hasn't changed face up value..confused. :blink:

#5 denverappraiser

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 08:20 AM

Flush setting is a way of setting the stone flat to the surface of the metal. There are no prongs. A tiny bit of the outside edge of the stone is covered up with metal, which is what holds it into the setting. Normally you see it done with fairly small side stones but it depends on the design of the piece.
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#6 dassin

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Posted 10 December 2011 - 10:44 PM

Guys, thanks for the answers!

Attached is the ring model in wax with a zircon stone inside. What do you think? Will flush setting work? What would be the best way to set the diamond so it will be visible entirely with this ring design? The diamond is excellent work, so I do want to display it fully, from all sides, but on the other hand, the design flow might be ruined if we use prongs. I'm in a dilemma here.

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Thanks!

#7 davidelevi

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Posted 11 December 2011 - 12:47 AM

I don't see how a prong setting would help in a major way.- this is and would remain a design that is quite closed around the stone. It is never going to display the diamond "fully and from all sides".

That doesn't mean the diamond will not be visible and sparkly. Will it be at its 100% best? Probably not, but if you want a very open setting, you need a radically different design, not just tinkering with the stone setting. I am with the designer on this one - if you want this design, flush is going to look much nicer (if done skilfully).

What metal are you using for the ring? If yellow (or pink) gold, I would go ahead. The contrast in colour is going to be enough to make the diamond jump out. If you are using white gold, palladium or platinum, I'd be tempted to rethink the whole design.
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#8 dassin

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Posted 11 December 2011 - 02:05 AM

Thanks for the advice. We are going with 18k yellow gold. The question is whether the diamond is going to look so much nicer in an "open" design that I'd go and rethink the entire current design. It's hard for me to estimate how much of the diamond's beauty I lose when hiding a part of it. The jeweler explained that a diamond with triple excellent work is wasted if hidden in a flush setting, but the designer tends to disagree:). What additional value does this excellent diamond give me over a diamond with a lesser cut, color and work when set in a flush setting? Will it still show all its supreme qualities in this setting?

#9 davidelevi

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Posted 11 December 2011 - 02:41 AM

Well, if you are going with "showing supreme qualities", you aren't going to see the difference between a D/IF and a F/VS2 - or even a G/SI1 - once set in any setting (and even with the diamond loose, you'd need some equipment), so what's the fuss with cut?

I imagine you chose that diamond at least as much for the symbolic value of D/IF as for its looks - otherwise, back to square one and start looking at other "lesser" (but possibly larger and/or cheaper) diamonds.

In any setting a well cut diamond will look better than a poorer cut diamond in the same setting. If you (and most importantly, your to-be-fiancée) want that design, then stick with it.
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#10 dassin

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Posted 14 December 2011 - 10:21 AM

Thanks, I understand what you're saying and I tend to go with the flush setting myself. Even though this is the direction, the designer created some options where the stone can be set with short, low set prongs to make the diamond stand out more.

The model is in wax, and the prongs themselves will be in yellow gold and much thinner, of course.

Could you let me know your opinion?

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Thanks,
Michael!

#11 davidelevi

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Posted 14 December 2011 - 12:35 PM

Pros: the diamond is going to look a little larger and a little brighter
Cons: the design is neater without the prongs (unless the designer makes the prongs very thin and in white gold or platinum - which has other problems, but makes them nearly invisible)...
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#12 dassin

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Posted 01 January 2012 - 04:46 AM

Thanks to everyone for their advice, I took some things out of the topic and passed on to the designer. The proposal was last Tuesday and she absoultely loved the ring, she said it fits her taste perfectly.

Thanks again!

#13 davidelevi

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Posted 01 January 2012 - 07:07 AM

This is a pretty good way to begin the new year! Congratulations and best wishes!

If you can, please post a couple of pictures of the finished ring - we always like seeing other people's diamonds!
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#14 dassin

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Posted 01 January 2012 - 08:58 AM

Thanks and Happy New Year!

Pictures of the ring:

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