The price difference you are finding could be due to many causes, not all of which are going to be apparent to you or even an expert without proper equipment and examinations. For example:
1. Use of natural colour diamonds vs. irradiated diamonds. Although most black diamonds are irradiated, natural blacks exist, and are considerably more expensive.
2. Different metals and alloys, used in different quantities. A thin ring is obviously going to cost less than a thick one, and may even be more graceful; it's unlikely to last as long. Platinum is more expensive than a naturally white 18K gold/platinum alloy which in turn is more expensive than rhodium-plating a 14K gold/silver/nickel/iron/copper alloy. Also, platinum is going to cost more to work and finish than gold (and 18K gold more than 14K).
3. Different manufacturing techniques and finish quality. A cast ring is going to be cheaper than a ring cut from pipe, in turn cheaper than die-striking or machining from solid. Solder seams in difficult-to-see areas can be filed down and polished finely, or left quite rough; same for the back of castings. Rough-and-ready overall polishing can be hidden to some extent by plating.
4. Detailing is expensive. Nice flowing prongs or claw-tips are time consuming. Milgrain, filigree, chasing and even engraving the name of the jeweller (or yours) by hand vs. by laser make a difference to the cost.
5. Pre-sales and after-sales service has a cost. The design that you planned with your local jeweller is a service, and it has a cost. Since you are planning to use the result of that effort with somebody else, that cost needs to be recouped by keeping average prices higher for other customers (which is why most custom makers insist in getting a significant downpayment before they begin detailed design). Having only an online presence also means lower costs in after-sales service, since relatively fewer customers will ship their jewels to you for replating, cleaning, adjusting... than they would if you were simply down the road and they could bring them in while doing their shopping.
6. Overheads (rents, wages, utilities, furnishing, insurance, ...) are definitely higher if you have a nice, customer-accessible location in a main shopping area than if you have a 12th floor office in an out-of-the-way building only open to the people that work there.
7. Your distinction between "ring maker" (bench jeweller) and jeweller is a false one. To sell a diamond ring, it takes - at a minimum: a designer, a diamond dealer, a supplier of metals, a bench jeweller, a setter and a retailer. In some cases, this means six individuals or firms involved; in some cases, it's only two or three. It is not necessarily true that where there are six the cost will be higher or the results better than when there are two. But neither is it necessarily true the other way around. As a consumer, you may be better served by someone who is accountable for the overall result than by someone who is "cheaper" at doing one or more tasks.
I could go on. What it boils down to: make sure that you are comparing like-for-like, and that you take all the elements of the package into consideration. With jewellery, much of the cost is hidden in tiny details that however matter quite a bit, both in terms of the looks and the durability of the final result.
As to Bell Jewels: I don't know them. They explicitly say they use irradiated and/or HPHT-treated diamonds with no independent lab grading, and the metalwork in their stock photos seems rather unrefined. On the other hand, their return terms are generous, and they seem to be quite forthright in describing what they sell.
Thank you very much.
rradiated and/or HPHT-treated diamonds what exactly does this mean?
"their return is generous" what exactly do you mean.
I am pretty happy with the ring my Local Jeweler designed, my only thing is I wish I knew what the mark up was.
I want to try to get the maximum for my dollar. I would gladly pay more for quality and long life.
The design is a 7mm black diamond in the center. with alternating white and black diamonds. 14K White Gold band.
I am just dangerous enough to know what I want, but not educated enough to know how to compare LIKE to LIKE.
I am so grateful for this site. It's really awesome
Thanks again. I'll keep you posted with my progress because my proposal date is July 10, 2011, that is our 1 year anniversary.
lower overhead
