Posted 30 May 2010 - 12:04 AM
Bear in mind that the only thing AGS (or any other lab) does is grade the diamond - and the choice of which lab to send the stone to is purely the owner's. There is no such thing as an AGS diamond or a GIA diamond; costs and times for grading are largely comparable across labs (and differences negligible compared to the value of the stones). AGS has a reputation for being strict on grading, and it adopts a scale on diamond grades that allows for finer distinctions than GIA's, with the result that stones getting a grade with GIA (e.g. "excellent" polish) will end up being split in two grades by AGS (0,1). This means people will tend to submit stones to AGS when they think the stone is particularly good - and thus rare.
Jared's have a line ("Peerless") that is graded by AGS, but reports by others make me think their selection is not broad. Several "smaller" retailers use AGS, either exclusively or in combination with GIA, but they don't make a point of carrying a broad selection; rather they tend to carry a relatively narrow selection of very high quality stones. The lab they (or their suppliers) use is not part of their marketing USP.
I am puzzled as to why the recommended jeweller told you not to get "caught up" - AGS is a highly professional and respected organisation, and the fact that they have customers in Japan (I have no idea if it's true) I'd see as a plus point in their credibility and reputation. AGS don't "send" anything anywhere, except to return the stone to its owner, who has contracted AGS to grade it; if the customer is in Japan, the lab will ship to Japan. There is a total confusion of cause and effect in saying that "they send lots of stones to Japan" - the stones were sent from Japan to get graded; does this jeweller expect the lab to send these graded stones to Greenland, perhaps?
Comparability on polish and symmetry is not hugely difficult: roughly speaking, AGS splits each GIA grade into two, but the correspondence is not perfect on some details of grading. On cut, as well as using a finer scale (0-9 vs. EX/VG/G/F/P), the standards are quite different, with AGS being much stricter (some say unnecessarily) than GIA on awarding the top grades. In other words: an AGS Ideal Cut (0) is almost certainly a GIA Excellent; not the reverse.
Clarity is not graded - by any lab - on the visibility of the inclusions; only on their presence. Most properly graded SI1 (whether graded by GIA, AGS or anyone else) are eye clean, but the only way to be certain about it is to see the stone. No grading report will ever tell you whether the inclusion is visible.