Absolutely. It does matter. Even among diamonds with top light return (a small percentage of those cut) there are differences in taste: A high crown/small table will be brilliant, but with more fire in the performance. Couple that with short lower halves on the pavilion (as you mentioned) and the colored flashes in its scint will be broader; closer to what you'd see in a cushion cut. A low crown/large table will have colored flashed but more whiteness & brightness in the performance. Couple it with long lower halves and you'll see a fast, sizzling pinpoint quality to the scintillation. All of this depends on exact config, lighting-lighting-lighting and your eyesight of course; some people are more cut-sensitive just like others are more color-sensitive. Once you're at the top level of light return it's really simple taste - and most people who admire it won't see it as anything but a kick-butt sparkly rock. My fiance has yet to have someone grab her hand and say
"Wow! Are those 77% lower halves coupled with Tolkowsky crown & pavilion angles?!" They just say wow and ooh and ahh about how it "sparkles."
Describing cut as the motor is exactly right because it drives performance - and your reading is correct about H&A diamonds. Just because a diamond shows a H&A pattern (no matter how precise) does not mean it has premium light return. Light return is far more of a priority. An ideal-scope or ASET image is helpful in terms of performance, where H&A photos only show optical symmetry/craftsmanship. In diamonds with top light return the benefits of optical symmetry are contrast and consistency in performance when cut to the same tight range. Sometimes a 'near-H&A' level of optical symmetry can be a by-product of cutting to top proportions (what some who focus on extreme H&A precision might call a 'happy accident'
). Diamonds displaying the highest levels of optical symmetry - those crafted to top levels of cut precision on-purpose - are valued by enthusiasts for matters of
craftsmanship as much as any effects on performance. On the other hand, some people prefer the random look of asymmetry. Optical symmetry is not a requirement for diamond beauty.
Cutting has improved greatly in the last decade or so because our tools and measuring devices have improved. Yes, you can find diamonds in non-collection colors and lower clarities with premium cut. In fact, it’s more lucrative to cut such rough this way because the better cut improves the appearance of the stone. I may have mentioned before that great cut can entrap less body color and great performance helps mask inclusions. There are G-J, SI diamonds (and lower) of cut quality that will knock your socks off. They're out there - you just have to know where to source them. You won’t find that cut quality in most commercial markets because in mass-manufacture it’s more profitable to ‘knock it into shape,’ send it out with no cut info and sell it under blazing jewelry store lights where consumers ask no cut questions (simply because they are not educated about it). Overall it’s less cost-effective to cut any rough to precise measurements. The good news is that consumers and sellers who focus on cut quality as a priority have created a niche demand for premium cut. Labs like the AGSL and GIA are responding by providing cut info and cut grading. Fortunately for the consumer, to move up in cut often requires less of a premium than jumping up in color or clarity. Crazy, yes, but it works to your advantage.
Color and inclusions are more visible in larger sizes, where the diamond has a larger body. It’s a stone-by-stone call; remember color and clarity are both ranges, they are not fixed. Again, the best solution if you’re worried about any of this in the sight-unseen market, is to work with a professional you trust to assist you in selection by hearing and responding to what you want.
Thanks for the comments about my lady. I was lucky to find a smart, beautiful gal with a weakness for bald guys and a poor judge of character.
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Ok, just want you to know that I have studied every word that you have written. If I could fly to America and get you personally to choose my diamond I would! Short of that, I am going to store everything that you have said about how to choose a diamond etc.
Mind you, Im beginning to feel like I didnt even put this much critique into my husband before marrying him!!!!
I have a few hypothetical questions. Do you predict a new market one day where everyone will be aware of cut is king. How do the cutters of the top 10% of cuts determine which qualities (brightness or fire) they will try to capture or which ratios they will try to use? Do you think buyers will ever have their diamonds custom cut and the actual `cutter` will be famous and in high demand. eg this diamond was cut by the famous Mr XYZ, so of course it`s a good investment. Do you think that in the future diamonds will be judged more on their light performance than ever, and that buying a diamond with that in mind will ensure it stays in high demand in tomorrows market? Also, do you think the average person can be bothered knowing these details, and does it take away from the `magic` or romance associated with diamonds. I suspect that this is why Tif. is doing so well. The average person can avoid having to learn and search and still save face by placing the burden of choosing to Tiff. The T. experience lets the buyer have it all, at a price!
And,for fun, I have coined a few phrases.....I think we will see a new type of diamond admirer who will be classed as a diamond `conesseur`. I think people will take more interest as they get more educated and you might get collectors like people who collect Rolex watches. I think we will start seeing episodes of `fire envy` and this should definately be incorperated in future marketing campaigns imo.
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